fJass J a 49 

Book 

Copyright^ : 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT: 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 




Looking Back from Beutah, The New Testament Church, Gems of 
Life, Golden Sunbeams, Demons and Tongues, The Chosen 
People, and Editor of Pillar of Fire, Pillar of Fire 
Junior, and London Pillar of Fire. 



Published by 

The Pentecostal Union 
(Pillar of Fire) 

BOUND BROOK, ■ NEW JEESEY 
1911 




By MRS. ALMA WHITE 



« — AUTHOR OF — » 



Copyright, 1911, by Mrs. Alma White. 



Note: — The illustrations on pages 98, 102, 118, 122, 126, 
129, 132, 135, 137, 143, 146, 149, 152, 155, 159, 163, 169, 172, 
176, 185, 188, 191 were made from photographs obtained from 
Fr. Vester & Co., Jerusalem. 

$Cr\b 



©CI. A 3 033 4 9 



PREFACE 



There have been many books written on 
Egypt and Palestine, and in presenting this 
volume to the public, it might seem that there 
would be nothing of interest to add to what 
has been written. But times are rapidly chang- 
ing, the Scriptures are being fulfilled, and 
as the Gentile age draws to a close, we 
find new conditions confronting us, facts con- 
cerning which we have tried to present in a 
simple, clear and forcible manner. 

The Gentile Church has about accomplished 
its mission, and Israel must accept Christ, and 
under the New Covenant assume the responsi- 
bility of dispensing the Gospel to the nations, 
but before this can be done, they must possess 
their patrimony, which has been for so many 
centuries in the hands of aliens. 

"My Trip to the Orient" presents the land 
as it is today under the loosening grasp of 
the Islam power. The sons of Ishmael are 
aware of the fact that Israel is fast gaining a 
foothold in Palestine. They realize that their 
own power is waning, and in some respects 
have given up the fight and are anxious for 



a change. Poverty and oppression have 
driven them to this. 

In addition to these facts we have tried to 
take our readers over land and sea, and let 
them participate in the various experiences we 
had, and enjoy the sights which continually 
met our vision. 

God wanted us to see the land that He 
promised to Abraham and his seed forever, 
and by personal observation be enabled to en- 
lighten others. 

The Old Testament brims with new life 
and inspiration after one has seen Egypt, the 
land of the Pharaohs, where God's ancient 
people were once in bondage. The history of 
the exodus bridges the flight of centuries, and 
it seems but yesterday since Moses and Miriam 
sang their song of deliverance at the Red Sea. 

The Author. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I 

FROM LONDON TO MARSEILLES 

The Promise of the Lord Fulfilled — Paris — An 
Unexpected Trip — Marseilles — Experience in a Res- 
taurant — A Visit to the Markets — Notre Dame 
Cathedral. 

' CHAPTER II 

ON THE MEDITERRANEAN 

The "Congo" — The Shores of Southern France— 
The French Nation Retrograding — First Meal on 
Board the "Congo" — Stromboli — Strait of Messina- 
Italy and Sicily. 

CHAPTER III 

THE CITY OF CAIRO 

Landing at Alexandria — Along the Nile— Cairo- 
Mohammedan Mosques — The Howling Dervishes— A 
Counterfeit of True Worship — Polygamy. 

CHAPTER IV 

A VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS 

The Great Nile Bridge— Famous Drive to Gizeh— 
A Dromedary Ride — The Pyramids — First Sight of 
Cheops — Rameses II — The Sphinx — The Stone Tem- 
ple — Mohammedans. 

CHAPTER V 

EGYPT AND THE EGYPTIANS 
History Written in Stone — Museum at Cairo — 



History of Egypt — Ishmael and Isaac — Moses' Choice. 
CHAPTER VI 



MOHAMMEDAN FUNERALS, WEDDINGS 
AND BIRTHS 

The Funeral Procession — Ceremony at the Grave 
—Marriage Customs — Ceremony at a Birth. 

CHAPTER VII 

FROM ALEXANDRIA TO JAFFA 

The Harbor at Alexandria — Port Said — Indica- 
tions of a Storm — A Storm at Sea — Impossible to 
Land at Jaffa — Beyrout — "Drive the Robbers Back" — 
Jaffa- — Truth Revealed by the Spirit. 

CHAPTER VIII 

JAFFA AND JERUSALEM 

Orange Groves — House of Simon the Tanner — 
The Plain of Sharon — The Natives along the Way — 
The Hills of Judaea— The Holy City— Bethlehem. 

CHAPTER IX 
the tombs of the kings and 
Solomon's stables 

Tombs of the Kings— Solomon's Stables — The 
Jewish Quarters— The Jews' Wailing Place — Mosque 
of Omar — The Golden Nails. 

CHAPTER X 

A STUDY OF THE PEOPLE 



Remarkable Memories — Good-Natured and 



Kindly Disposed — Human Express Wagons — A 
Change of Government — Compulsory Military Service. 

CHAPTER XI 

JERUSALEM, CALVARY, VIA DOLOROSA 

The True Calvary — Via Dolorosa — Idolatry — 
Devoted to Stones — The Fourteen Stations — Progress 
due to Christianity. 

CHAPTER XII 

JERUSALEM IN A SNOW STORM 

A Start for the Mount of Olives — The Snow 
Storm — Sufferings of the Guide — Poverty in Jerusa- 
lem — The Terraced Hills — Incidents at a Railway 
Station. 

CHAPTER XIII 

JERUSALEM AND HOMEWARD 

Heavily Laden Men and Beasts — Moslem Chil- 
dren — Egyptian Bazaars — The Suez Canal — Alexan- 
dria Again — Egypt and its History. 

CHAPTER XIV 

FROM ALEXANDRIA TO LONDON 

A Mohammedan Farewell — Incidents on Board 
Ship — A Night Ride Through France — Scenery Be- 
tween Paris and Dieppe — Crossing the Channel— A 
Rough Sea, a Small Boat and the Results — Cure for 
Seasickness — London. 

CHAPTER XV 

CHARACTER SKETCHES 



\ 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



CHAPTER I 

FROM LONDON TO MARSEILLES 

MANY years ago, when engaged in mis- 
sionary work in Montana, without 
having had any previous thought of 
going, or desire to do so, the Lord made it 
known to us that some day we should visit the 
Holy Land, not as a mere sightseer, but in the 
interests of His work and kingdom. Since 
this time God's word on the Restoration of 
Israel has been vividly unfolded to us, and we 
see a great future for that country when the 
wandering sons of Jacob have been gathered 
home. Having learned that the divine plan for 
the conversion and reconstruction of the world 
could only be brought about through the resto- 
ration of His ancient people, and also the part 
that we as members of the true Church have to 
perform in bringing it to pass, naturally our 
interest in them was increased many fold. 



12 MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 

After thirteen years, the way opened and 
we went. The trip was full of interest from 
beginning to end. The angel of the Lord went 
by our side, protecting us from danger both on 
sea and land. Our heart thrilled with inspira- 
tion as we looked upon the ancient places, and 
from guides, interpreters and others heard the 
history in connection with them, which has been 
so often repeated. 

We stood at the doorways of temples 
and tombs, much as the sisters of Lazarus did 
who wept over their deceased brother (John 
n). There were times when we could not 
restrain the tears, but we wept not as one with- 
out hope, for the Master stood beside us, giv- 
ing us the assurance that Israel would yet be 
resurrected from their spiritual graves, and 
that the country would blossom as the rose. 
All things seemed to be propitious for the mar- 
velous transformation that is soon to come. 
We thought of Jeremiah 23 : 7-8, which says, 
"Therefore, behold, the days come, saith the 
Lord, that they shall no more say, The Lord 
liveth, which brought up the children of Israel 
out of the land of Egypt ; But, The Lord liveth, 
which brought up and which led the seed of 
the house of Israel out of the north country, 



FROM LONDON TO MARSEILLES 



13 



and from all countries whither I had driven 
them; and they shall dwell in their own land." 
The deliverance from Egyptian bondage will 
be so insignificant in comparison to their fu- 
ture regathering, it will scarcely be mentioned. 
Those who visit the Holy Land at the present 
time hear nothing of the future of Israel, their 
time is taken up with rehearsals of the past. 
They look into the graves of the dead and fail to 
comprehend Israel's glorious resurrection. The 
time is coming when it will no more be said, 
"This is Bethlehem, the place where Christ w r as 
born/' or, "The mountain where they crucified 
Him," or, "The Via Dolorosa," or, "The tomb 
where they laid Him?" but, "This is the Mount 
of His appearing, where He descended on the 
clouds of His glory, accompanied by the re- 
deemed saints and angelic hosts." 

At 8: 45 p. m., January 17th, 191 1, accom- 
panied by our niece and nephew, Mr. and Mrs. 
A. L. Wolfram, we- took the train at Victoria 
Station, London, for New Haven. We crossed 
the English Channel on a French steamer in 
the night. During the voyage of about three 
hours we suffered from the cold. French and 
English steamships are poorly heated. But 
there was quite a change awaiting us at 



14 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



Dieppe, France, where we were soon seated 
in a comfortably heated railway carriage. 
It was about eight o'clock in the morning 
when we reached Paris. The people 
here of course were of strange speech, 
and we found it quite difficult to make 
ourselves understood. But every Gospel 
worker should have an experience of this kind 
in order to give him charity for others placed 
in similar circumstances. In our travels and 
work of the Gospel in the United States and 
England, we had met people of all nationalities 
and among them those who could not speak a 
word of English, but we were unable to ap- 
preciate their embarrassment and their inabil- 
ity to help themselves. We found the French 
very courteous and anxious to render us any 
assistance they could. It almost put us to 
shame when we thought of the selfishness and 
indifference shown by the Americans toward 
foreigners. There was one passenger in our 
car who spoke both French and English; she 
rendered us some assistance when our baggage 
was inspected, which we greatly appreciated. 

At Paris we met Cook's representatives 
who gave us some needed information. Our 
party rode several miles across the city in a 



i6 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



taxicab for three francs (60 cents). Be- 
sides, we had six pieces of baggage, all in- 
cluded in the price. The French have said and 
written much about the exorbitant charges of 
carriage and hack drivers in the United States, 
and it is not to be wondered at. 

We spent a few hours writing in the Paris, 
Lyons and Mediterranean depot. The room, in 
some respects, resembled the drawing room of 
an American hotel. The walls were hand- 
painted, there were beautiful landscapes por- 
trayed in colors. The furniture was uphol- 
stered in brown leather, the floor stained to 
correspond. The room was comfortable. 
After leaving New York in November, we had 
failed to find any public waiting room properly 
heated. The English people especially, seem 
to ignore modern methods of heating. There 
is something cheery about the old-fashioned 
fireplaces, but they are mere makeshifts for 
comfort. 

We reached Marseilles, January 19th, too 
late to sail on the "Equateur." This was 
caused by a mistake being made on the train 
from Paris to Marseilles. We supposed the 
conductor would inform us when the train ar- 
rived at our destination, but instead of doing 



FROM LONDON TO MARSEILLES I 7 



so he carried us on two or three hundred miles 
through Southern France. When we learned 
of the mistake we saw at once that we would 
be unable to return in time to take the boat to 
Jaffa, and, believing, as we do, that all things 
work together for good to them that love God, 
to them who are the called according to His 
purpose, we determined to make the best of it 
and find out what God had in it for us. 

At Cannes we took the train back to Mar- 
seilles. Cannes is a famous winter resort 
close to the foothills of the Alps. The scen- 
ery along the Mediterranean far exceeds our 
powers of description. The sun was shining 
brightly with no smoke or fog to obscure the 
vision. We were not expecting a trip like this, 
but the Lord had a surprise for us. 

On reaching the station at Marseilles at 
7 p. m. it was with difficulty that we could find 
anyone that could speak even a few words of 
English. A middle-aged woman saw our pre- 
dicament and said, "Englishman ?" We said, 
"Yes." She smiled and then hurried away 
and brought a person back with her who could 
speak English. We showed our apprecia- 
tion, which greatly pleased her. The per- 
son she brought sent us to a hotel where 

2 



1 8 MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 

there were several persons with whom we 
could converse. In London we observed that 
some of our American friends criticised the 
English accent. We were quite sure they would 
never do so again if they were to find them- 
selves in a country where they could not under- 
stand one word. 

At Marseilles the atmosphere is usually 
bright and clear, and in midwinter one feels 
comfortable in the daytime without a fire, and 
it is well that this is so, for fuel is very ex- 
pensive and the poorer classes cannot buy it. 

It took an hour in a cafe to get our break- 
fast served, which consisted of bread, milk and 
a small beafsteak. No one could understand 
what we wanted. We did not care for meat, 
but had to take it because we could not make 
those who tried to serve us understand. The 
French waiter called it "beeftick." 

John Wesley said the world was his par- 
ish, and we claim to be his followers in both 
doctrine and practice, and we see now that the 
Lord was not pleased with our plan to hurry 
through France without learning something 
of the people and their language and customs. 
And again we have been greatly impressed 
with the importance of the young people in our 



FROM LONDON TO MARSEILLES 19 

school giving more time to the study of modern 
languages, especially French and German. We 
greatly desire the privilege of circulating our 
Gospel literature in France, but of course the 
books would have to be translated. Not to 
have a tract, paper or book to hand out to the 
people makes us feel as if we were withholding 
bread from those that are perishing with hun- 
ger. May God hasten the day when we may 
be enabled to feed them from our Gospel store- 
house. 

We had pleasant rooms on the top floor of 
the hotel and lessened expenses by providing 
some of our meals in our own rooms. 

Marseilles is one of the great seaports of 
Southern Europe. Ships are docked in her 
harbor from all parts of the world. There 
was much information we desired, but it was 
useless to ask questions. When we attempted 
to do so a crowd would soon be enmassed about 
us, eager to know what was wanted. 

The next day after our arrival we looked 
about the city and soon found ourselves at the 
market, where we were watched with eager eyes 
as we walked between the narrow passageways. 
It greatly amused the market women when one 
of our number paused to take a picture. These 



FROM LONDON TO MARSEILLES 21 

women, who were selling small vegetables and 
fruits and tainted fowls, were there with their 
children and apparently nearly all of their be- 
longings. 

This market in Southern France is cer- 
tainly an interesting place. Many profitable 
hours could be spent there studying the habits 
and customs of the French people. Tourists 
never fail to visit this market. 

If one is particular as to what he eats in 
French hotels, restaurants, or on the steam- 
ships, he should visit the markets first, and in 
all probability part of his menu would be elim- 
inated. He would refuse some of the meats, 
fowls and fish. There is also a question as to 
whether the eggs served are those of hens, or 
of reptiles or unclean fowls. We do not wish 
to throw any reflections upon the French peo- 
ple, but merely to state the facts. 

These conditions, we believe, are due to a 
lack of Christianity. Where people have the 
Spirit of Christ, they are conscientious about 
what they eat, and well they should be, for 
the Scriptures teach that the human body is 
the temple of the Holy Spirit. I Cor. 3: 17 
says, "If any man defile the temple of God, him 
shall God destroy," this scripture referring not 



22 MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 

only to spiritual defilement, but also to that 
which defiles the flesh. A Christian will not 
eat a reptile if he knows it, but we have been 
told that there are Frenchmen who are so un- 
scrupulous as to serve them to the unsuspect- 
ing tourist. Therefore it is well enough to 
abstain from some dishes that often look the 
most tempting. 

The French have the art of chopping food, 
especially meats, into small pieces and serving 
it with dressing, making it almost impossible 
for one to tell what he is eating. Vegetables 
and meats are cooked with a great amount of 
oil or grease. 

We visited the famous Notre Dame Ca- 
thedral, which is shown in the accompanying 
picture. It is situated on an elevation several 
hundred feet above the city, and is reached 
by what is known in the States as the "Angel's 
Flight," an elevator with great cables, running 
on an incline. It consists of two large cars, 
one goes up while the other is making the de- 
scent. 

From the cathedral, where the devout 
Catholics worship, a fine view of the city and 
harbor can be had. There are many inter- 
esting things about this place, which we have 



THE ^ANGEL'S FLIGHT 



24 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



not time and space to describe. There are all 
kinds of souvenirs sold, on which are carved, 
painted or engraved the picture of the cathe- 
dral. It gives the tourist an opportunity to 
spend his money, if he wishes to do so. Like the 
images of the goddess Diana, these souvenirs 
bring much gain to the city. On the interior 
there were at least a hundred candles burning. 
These candles were bought and placed there 
by regular worshipers and tourists. We were 
told the smallest candles sold for a franc 
(twenty cents) each, and it is surprising how 
many of them are bought and sacrificed to the 
Virgin. 

"Notre Dame" means "our lady," or, in 
other words, the Virgin Mary. There is an 
immense statue of the Virgin covered with 
bronze or gold on top of the building. Near 
the cathedral, the barracks of the French 
soldiers are located. We saw the soldiers 
marching down a steep hill, going toward the 
harbor. Their uniforms were quite different 
from those, we had been accustomed to seeing. - 
Some of their officers look well, but the gen- 
eral appearance of those in military dress is 
far inferior to the soldiers and police of Eng- 
land and America. Most of them, including 



FROM LONDON TO MARSEILLES 25 

the police, were of ordinary stature, averaging 
about five feet and six or seven inches in 
height. They lack dignity to command the 
respect of the tourist. English officers are tall 
and stately. Their high hats and long coats 
give them a commanding appearance. Stran- 
gers are impressed with their official bearing, 
and cannot help but respect them. 



CHAPTER II 



ON THE MEDITERRANEAN 

WE left Marseilles on January 26th, for 
Alexandria, Egypt. During the after- 
noon we sailed along the coast of 
Southern France and were delighted with the 
view. The first four days of the voyage, we 
were out of sight of land only one day. The 
"Congo," on which we sailed, was one of the 
old vessels of the Messageries line, usually 
in the Mediterranean trade in the winter and 
later in the season used in the West African 
service. The crew were old, experienced sail- 
ors. After sailing the seas for many years, 
men are apt to become self-confident, and pas- 
sengers are sometimes safer in the hands of 
those who have had less experience. A good 
captain knows all about his vessel, but after 
she has taken him through many a stormy sea, 
he is apt to overestimate her strength. Often 
when people are least expecting danger, calam- 



28 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



ity comes, and thus we are reminded of the 
scripture, "Let him that thinketh he standeth 
take heed lest he fall." 

We have learned in starting out on a voy- 
age, not to put too much confidence in those 
who man the vessel, and our trust was in God. 
We fully expected to have a safe voyage and 
accomplish the work that He had sent us to do. 

Usually, the first few days out, passengers 
are troubled with seasickness, but we were 
spared this unpleasant experience. 

As we viewed the shores of France, some 
of its past history came to mind. One hun- 
dred years ago, she was in her glory. Napo- 
leon, with his great ambition to conquer the 
world, had Continental Europe, Asia and Af- 
rica in the dust at his feet. The Russians 
gave him his first defeat, which was followed 
up by the British and consummated in his final 
overthrow at Waterloo. Instead of France 
having the metropolitanship of the world, it 
was transferred to England. 

Why did God permit Xapoleon to be de- 
feated and the Duke of Wellington to win the 
day in one of the world's great, decisive bat- 
tles? The reason is apparent. The French, 
with their infidelity and Roman Catholicism, 



ON THE MEDITERRANEAN 29 

were unfit to stand at the head of the nations. 
God saw this, and handed the scepter to the 
Protestant power. The history of Bloody 
Mary, with her hatred for Protestant religion, 
tells the story. God will not permit the spirit 
of the Inquisition to prosper in any people or 
nation, He will not endorse Romanism. 
He wants men, enlightened by His word, free 
to worship Him in spirit and in truth. Through 
the Roman power, Satan has ever been per- 
sistent in trying to keep the Bible out of the 
hands of humanity. The Pope and priests 
claim to have the sole right to expound its 
teachings and render absolution from sin. 

Christ became our great High Priest, when 
He offered himself up as a sacrifice once for 
all. He entered the Holy of Holies by His 
own blood, and made atonement for sin and 
was forever made a priest after the order of 
Melchizedec (Heb. 7:17). He now sits at the 
right hand of God the Father, making inter- 
cession for the purchase of His blood. He 
alone can forgive sins, and for man to claim 
the power to do so is blasphemous and an at- 
tempt to supersede Him in His priestly office. 

Roman Catholicism, with its idolatrous 



30 MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 

worship of saints and the Virgin Mary, has 
received a death blow in the past few years 
in France. Only a few months ago, we heard 
of many of the nuns and Sisters of Charity 
fleeing to England and other countries for ref- 
uge from their persecutors. In fact, some of 
them located only a few doors from us in 
London. 

God has seen fit that the Roman beast shall 
not always go on unchecked. 

THE FRENCH NATION RETROGRADING 

France is far behind other civilized nations, 
and is rapidly degenerating. The people are 
given over to sensual pleasures, plunging head- 
long into all kinds of vice. They have no true 
religious convictions. France, as she stands to- 
day, is in the embrace of infidelity. The degra- 
dation of women is seen on every hand. She 
lacks true motherhood, which is absolutely 
necessary to the building up of a nation. There 
is scarcely any increase in the population. If 
a change does not come soon, this country of 
ancient lore and fame is doomed. 

Wine, fashion and harlotry make the home 
desolate. We saw women on the streets of 
Marseilles and Paris with garments so tightly 



ON THE MEDITERRANEAN 



31 



drawn about their forms, they reminded us of 
Egyptian mummies. 

The sidewalks are lined with men and 
women drinking wine at small tables. Nearly 
all the men wear goatees, with the ends of 
their mustaches curled upward. They sip their 




NAPOLEON BONAPARTE 

wine very slowly, taking as much time to drink 
a small glass as some people would take to 
drink a quart of beer. However, we saw no 
one so intoxicated that his steps were uncer- 



32 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



tain. There are not so many drunkards in 
France as there are in England. 

Tobacco is used freely in some form by all 
classes. Men and stylishly attired women 
drink and smoke together in public places. 

Our first meal on board the ship was 
attended by an unpleasant episode. Wine was 
served in abundance and without extra ex- 
pense, and the passengers drank it more freely 
than water. We endured this as best we could 
for a time, but after they had finished six 
courese, and had drunk wine with each course, 
cigarettes were passed around, and to our sur- 
prise and dismay, both men and women began 
to smoke, some of them rising on their tiptoes 
to light their cigarettes from those of others 
on the opposite side of the table. Shocked at the 
scene, we made a protest, and left the dining- 
room, and did not return to the table for 
two days, in the meantime refusing every 
request to have something brought to our cabin. 
The rebuke had its effect. 

The French have the name of being very 
courteous, and they are to the extent of their 
morals, but they are constantly doing things 
that are not only distasteful, but shocking to 
people whose moral standard is on a higher 



ON THE MEDITERRANEAN 



33 



plane. They converse freely with strangers, 
and pride themselves on being able to take a 
joke, even though there may be a stinging re- 
buke in it. 

On our voyages, we have found that on 
almost every vessel, there is some one who does 
not differ greatly from a circus clown, — he 
furnishes amusement for others. A French- 
man of this character w T as on board the 
"Congo." He tried to be clever and to amuse 
everybody, but often he overstepped the mark 
and made himself obnoxious. 

An Englishman at our table pretended to 
watch the food very closely. When meat was 
served, he intimated to the clever Frenchman 
that it was horseflesh or even worse, — the 
flesh of some animal of the canine species that 
had been sacrificed in behalf of our menu. 

Some time ago, the writer read in a London 
paper that France was trying to legalize 
the sale of horse-flesh and that of other unclean 
animals. The fact is, great quantities are sold 
to poor people and consumed by them, and to 
avoid being prosecuted, an effort was being 
made by the dealers to have the embargo re- 
moved. 

By observation, we have learned that many 

3 



34 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



people go on ocean voyages more to satisfy 
their appetites, than for any other purpose. We 
have seen many of them eat from four to six 
times a day. The English eat more and oftener 
than the French. It is surprising how some 
of them, under these conditions, are able to 
keep up. 

STROMBOLI 

On the morning of the 28th, we were in 
plain view of Stromboli, a volcano rising out 
of the sea. The smoke was scarcely distin- 
guishable from the white clouds which hung 
over it. It certainly is a wonder of creation. 
If it could have spoken, it no doubt would have 
told us something of the earth's interior, and 
how that its head had been raised above the 
water to warn people of the fires of perdition. 

The Scriptures teach that hell is in the cen- 
ter of the earth, and to prove this, God has per- 
mitted molten lava to burst forth from burning 
mountains, by which whole cities have been 
destroyed on account of their wickedness. 
When the cup of iniquity is filled, God's 
wrath is sure to follow. Pompeii and Hercu- 
laneum were destroyed by Vesuvius many 
hundreds of years ago. The ruins of these 



< 
w 

in 

< 
t— i 

a 

in 



W 

a 

H 
O 



36 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



cities have been uncovered, and the inconceiv- 
able iniquity of the people exposed. 

Sodom and Gomorrah were destroyed by 
fire and brimstone, probably from the crater 
of a burning mountain. 

When nearing the Strait of Messina there 
was so much to be seen it kept us busy going 
from one side of the vessel to the other. We 
looked toward the East and saw the rising sun 
with its rays streaming down through the mas- 
sive white clouds. We thought of the city on 
hills of gold, the New Jerusalem, which is soon 
coming down. Earth is only a stepping-stone 
to the world beyond, and why should people 
cling to the perishable things below. 

Satan has done all in his power to destroy 
the world. He has ever persisted in claim- 
ing the right to rule and reign over it. 
But thanks be to God, the time is near 
when he will be routed from his strong- 
holds, and Christ who redeemed it will trans- 
form and robe it in millennial glory. After 
the work of redemption has been completed and 
the earth has been purged and purified, He 
will present to the Father a finished work and 
deliver up the keys. "Then cometh the end, 
when he shall have delivered up the kingdom to 



ON THE MEDITERRANEAN 37 

God, even the Father ; when he shall have put 
down all rule and all authority and power. 
For he must reign, till he hath put all his en- 
emies under his feet" (i Cor. 15: 24-25). 

ITALY AND SICILY 

We were told that the "Congo" was not go- 
ing to touch at any port until she reached Al- 
exandria, but she seemed to be heading for 
land and we were anxious to see the out- 
come. We soon found ourselves in the strait 
with the ruins of Messina on the coast of Sicily 
in plain view on our right. It will be remem- 
bered that this city was destroyed by an earth- 
quake about three years ago. We could see 
no signs of life in it as we passed by. 

On our left was the coast of Italy, dotted 
here and there with towns and cities, while the 
green hills made a beautiful background. Many 
times while studying the geography of Europe 
in our childhood days we traced the outlines 
of boot-shaped Italy on a piece of paper, and 
wondered why God had created it in this shape. 
Sicily, its football, was separated only by a 
narrow neck of water. We did not suppose 
that it would ever be our privilege to be on the 
Mediterranean and pass through this strait. 



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ON THE MEDITERRANEAN 



39 



But in the providence of God He brought it 
to pass. It is certainly a great privilege to be 
sent on an errand for Him and to be able to 
perform acceptably the work given us to do. 

After passing through the strait we were 
in full view of Mt. iEtna, with the great white 
pillars of smoke ascending from its black 
crater. The scenery on both sides of our ves- 
sel was beyond description. It was at least 
three hours after coming in sight of ^tna be- 
fore its snow-covered sides vanished from view. 

There were persons on board who had seen 
it many times, who said it had never presented 
a better appearance. 

We wearied of the continual cry of the sea 
gulls, which had followed us all the way from 
Marseilles, darting down at times and almost 
lighting on our heads. They were hungry. 
The fact is there was not enough food thrown 
overboard from the vessel to keep the birds 
that followed it from suffering with hunger. 
We have seen bushels of food wasted on 
English vessels, but the French have learned 
the lesson of economy, and no such waste is 
seen. 

We passed the Isle of Crete at our left, at 
which Paul touched on his way to Rome. 



CHAPTER III 



THE CITY OF CAIRO 

WE reached Alexandria January 31st. 
Our first sight of the harbor and the 
continent made us feel much as we 
did a few years ago when we saw the ocean 
for the first time at the mouth of the Columbia 
River. Words are inadequate to express one's 
feelings on such occasions. 

It was a surprise to us to see so many ves- 
sels anchored in this harbor. They were of 
every imaginable description, floating the flags 
of the different nations. 

Africa is called the "Dark Continent/' Its 
inhabitants are dark-skinned, its history as a 
whole has been that of dark and bloody crimes. 
Scarcely anything has been known of its in- 
terior until the past few years. David Living- 
stone, who pioneered the way into its depths of 
barbarism, is looked upon as a hero of cen- 
turies, yet there are no people in the world 



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MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



whose history is traceable to such a remote 
period as that of the Egyptians. In Egypt 
there was civilization before the patri- 
archal age. The sons of Ham, the "children 
of the flesh/ 5 populated Africa, which undoubt- 
edly accounts for the present uncivilized con- 
dition of the continent as a whole. 

God pronounced a curse upon Ham and 
his posterity because of his lack of modesty 
and virtue. "And he said, Cursed be Canaan 
(Ham) ; a servant of servants shall he be." 

The "Congo" lay out in the bay a half hour 
before we disembarked. We had heard how 
the natives came out in boats to meet the ves- 
sels, and we were on the lookout for them. 
Soon, like so many scavengers, they boarded 
the ship in quest of passengers and bag- 
gage. Many of them spoke a few words of 
English and French, enough to make known 
their errand and to show their papers of 
authority. As might be expected, we were 
afraid to trust them, and looked for Cook's 
representatives who charged more for their 
services, but it is well worth the difference. 

We were taken in an omnibus to the Cus- 
tom House, where our baggage was inspected, 
and from there to the railroad station where 



THE CITY OF CAIRO 



43 



the train left for Cairo two hours later. They 
charged us five francs ($i.co) each for trans- 
ferring us and our baggage. This amount in- 
cluded a small sum to the custom officers, and 
fees to the natives who handled the baggage. 

ALONG THE NILE 

When the train pulled out of the station, 
and especially after we got a view of the Nile, 
we began to realize that we were actually in 
Egypt. The history of the children of Israel 
given in Exodus came to us anew. We thought 
of Moses and the basket in the bulrushes, 
and how, later, through God's judgments, 
this river was turned into blood. One can 
imagine how it thrilled our heart to be looking 
upon its placid waters. Its sides were lined 
with sail boats, small steamers, and rude 
Egyptian barks. 

Shortly after leaving Alexandria, the green 
fields, with herds and flocks, everywhere 
greeted our vision. The natives were seen 
traveling on donkeys and swift dromedaries. 
Others of the more nomadic tribes were loiter- 
ing along the way with their cattle, sheep 
and goats. The stately palms were different 
from any we had seen in Europe or America. 



THE CITY OF CAIRO 



45 



The natives came into the' car and took 
seats beside us; some of them were richly 
dressed. The bright, red fez, with its black 
tassel, is the prevailing head-dress, though dif- 
ferent colored turbans are seen. These na- 
tives smoked their cigarettes and eyed us 
closely, but withal they were friendly and tried 
to make themselves agreeable, even offering 
us fruit. One person made us understand 
that he could speak French well, but only a 
few w r ords of English. He wore a rich broad- 
cloth robe, with a silk undergarment, and a 
silk scarf. If he had been dressed in European 
costume, he might have been taken for a person 
of superior rank -and intelligence. His red fez 
contrasted vividly with his black hair and eyes. 

The three hours' ride from Alexandria to 
Cairo was full of interest. The native villages 
gave us some idea of how the people lived. At 
every station* we were besieged by natives 
selling their fruits and wares. Four large 
oranges were bought for one piaster, — five 
cents. 

When we reached the station at Cairo, 
there was a Babel of voices from the repre- 
sentatives of the different hotels. Natives 
and white men were alike persistent in trying 



4 6 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



to secure our patronage. There were at least 
a half dozen crying in our ears at once, hold- 
ing their cards so close they obscured our vis- 
ion. Others kept their distance, only because 
there was no room for them to come nearer. 
We had to keep silent and make our decision, 
and were soon located on the top floor of the 
Metropole Hotel. In spite of the confusion, 
the Lord directed us to the right place. 

We soon began to feel at home, and felt 
like singing, 

"Anywhere with Jesus I can safely go, 
Anywhere He leads me in this world below, 
Anywhere without Him, dearest joys would fade, 
Anywhere with Jesus I am not afraid." 

In Egypt, there is a great mixture of Euro.- 
pean and Asiatic blood, the population being 
composed of as many as ten different elements. 
While the skins of some are very dark, their 
hair is as straight and black as that of an 
American Indian. 

We had never before been so moved with 
sights and scenes as in Cairo. The streets 
were like a kaleidoscope, presenting every 
class and nationality on the globe. The na- 
tives in their peculiar costumes displaying 
both bright and somber colors, with their red, 



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MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



white and brown turbans, and the more sty- 
lish fez, made a picture never to be forgotten. 
Man} 7 of the higher class natives wear long, 
rich robes, in some instances sweeping the 
ground, displaying an under garment of bright- 
colored satin. Contrasted with the various 
colors and costumes of the natives, are the 
rich and fashionably dressed men and women 
of all civilized lands. There is no other spot 
on the globe where such scenes are constantly 
greeting the eye. A writer has truly said, 
"The street scenes presented by the city of the 
Khalifs admirably illustrates the whole world 
of Oriental fiction, producing an indelible im- 
pression on the uninitiated denizen of the 
West." 

Cairo is fascinating on account of its civ- 
ilized and half-civilized scenes, which will 
awaken the interest of the most unemotional 
character. The city may be compared to a 
mosaic of the most fantastic or bizarre de- 
scription. It is called a living museum of all 
imaginable and unimaginable phases of exist- 
ence, of refinement and degeneracy, of civiliza- 
tion and barbarism, of knowledge and igno- 
rance, of Paganism, Christianity and Moham- 
medanism. 



THE CITY OF CAIRO 



49 



B. Goltz, in his remarks on Cairo, said, 
u In the boulevards of Paris and on London 
bridge, I saw but the shadow, and at Alex- 
andria, the prelude only, of the Babel of Cairo, 
with which the Venetian or Roman carnival 
is tame and commonplace/' 

After four o'clock in the afternoon it is al- 
most impossible for visitors to make their way 
with facility through the public thoroughfares 
because of the persistent efforts of the natives 
to sell their wares. For an example of their 
cunning, one of them, before he had heard us 
utter a word, accosted us by saying, "How 
d'oo, Miss America." It is a little difficult for 
them sometimes to distinguish between the 
Americans and the English, but the more dis- 
cerning ones can tell before they have any op- 
portunity to hear them speak. 

Among the poorer classes, there is a con- 
tinual cry for "bakshish," a gift. 

MOHAMMEDAN MOSQUES 

We never appreciated the Bible more than 
after seeing Cairo, and observing so many 
kinds of people with their different religions. 
The Mohammedan mosques, with their mina- 
rets towering hundreds of feet high, are impos- 

4 




SULTAN HASSAN MOSQUE 



THE CITY OF CAIRO 



51 



ing structures of granite and marble. We vis- 
ited the mosque of Sultan Hassan, constructed 
in 1357. We stood under the dome, which is 
150 feet high. On the floor, under the cen- 
ter of this dome, is the tomb of the projector 
and builder of this mosque. It was once bom- 
barded and almost destroyed by Napoleon, 
but has been lately reconstructed at a cost of 
£150,000 ($750,000). We saw other mosques 
whose outward appearance far exceeded this 
one in magnificence. 

In the courts of these mosques the people 
meet five times a day to pray. There are no 
seats or other pieces of furniture to give any 
idea of ease or comfort. 

Before daylight every morning we were 
awakened by a pious Moslem calling the peo- 
ple to come to the house of prayer. The 
devil knows as well as Christians, that in the 
morning is the best time to pray. And if 
he can appr6priate these hours which the 
people ought to be giving to the Lord in true 
worship, he has accomplished much in the 
advancement of his kingdom. 

One has to see the degredation that comes 
as the result of heathen worship in order to 
fully appreciate the Bible and the countries 



52 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



over which its influence* is felt. How un- 
principled and ignorant are those who live 
in such lands, but have no appreciation of the 
inspired Word. Infidelity ought to be wiped 
out of such countries, by compelling those who 
have no use for the word of God to go to the 
heathen lands and live among the half-bar- 
barous tribes. England boasts of her civiliza- 
tion, but the parks and thoroughfares of Lon- 
don and other cities are cursed with infidels of 
the rankest type, who blatantly scoff at be- 
lievers, and trample the word of God under 
their feet. 

While there is not such a bold type of in- 
fidelity in the States, the lack of spiritual life 
in church members is laying the foundation for 
even a worse condition of affairs. 

THE ^HOWLING DERVISHES^ 

During our stay in Cairo, we looked into 
the caves and watched the gyrations of the 
"Howling Dervishes/' and truly we can say 
that our eyes had never beheld such a scene 
of religious demonstration. We asked our 
dragoman what they were trying to do, and the 
answer was, "To please Allah" (God). Some 
of them apparently were in a semi-conscious 



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54 MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 

state, and with drooping heads and swinging 
arms, they produced sounds not unlike the 
American Indians in their war dances. There 
was an instrument that sounded like a flute 
which was used to mark the time that they 
made with their swinging bodies. 

When our guide saw our surprise and dis- 
gust at the scene, he was somewhat tried, and 
told us frankly that it was his own religion. 
There were about 150 in the cave that we vis- 
ited. They had crept in through narrow pas- 
sages, and were occupying different rooms of 
the cave. Intermingled with the noises made 
by the men, were shrill, hysterical notes of 
female voices. Weird and wild does not ex- 
press it. Some of these notes were like the 
songs of native birds and were really beautiful. 

By observation, we have learned that 
the devil can get control of the human voice, 
and produce strange sounds, often similar to 
those of the ventriloquist. In meetings held 
by the "Tongues" people, there are strange 
voices and mutterings which are simply de- 
mon manifestations. This they call Pente- 
cost. When a victim of the demoniacal 
tongues begins to jabber it is claimed he 
has received his baptism. The Dervishes 



THE CITY OF CAIRO 



55 



declare that they are never so happy as 
when engaged in their fantastical wor- 
ship. Their god is none other than the 
devil, who recompenses them for all the 
sacrifices they make by giving them a su- 
perficial and momentary joy, or delight, 
which subsides with the abatement of their 
physical energies. 

In this we see the counterfeit of true spir- 
itual worship. Hell had to enlarge itself when 
the devil succeeded in capturing Mohammed 
and getting him to write the Koran, substi- 
tuting it for the Bible which he took out of the 
people's hands. This man, the greatest of all 
the Moslem prophets, heard voices in a cave, 
and imagined that he was divinely called to 
establish the true religion. History says that 
in his early life, he received instruction from 
a Christian monk, which in later years he re- 
pudiated. This former Christian teaching, when 
perverted, only made him a more efficient in- 
strument in the hands of Satan. He is said to 
have been an epileptic, which of course is a 
form of demon possession. No doubt he heard 
voices, but they were the voices of fallen spir- 
its. Mohammed was a polygamist, and polyg- 
amy is the great curse of his followers today, 




OUR DRAGOMAN, ^MOHAMMED ALl/' TAKEN 
NEAR THE CAVE OF THE DERVISHES 



THE CITY OF CAIRO 



57 



Satan has tried to curse every nation by 
introducing polygamy under the name of re- 
ligion. Mormonism in the United States is 
the outcome of one of his most successful 
schemes to destroy souls, and only by the civil 
and military powers has it been checked and 
kept under control. When the devil under- 
took to destroy the human race, he knew that 
he could best accomplish it through the prac- 
tice of polygamy. 

The multitude of divorces and remarriages 
that are permitted under the civil governments 
of the United States and England, is polygamy 
in a different form, and when we think of 
the ministers of the old denominations tak- 
ing a part in legalizing such marriages, we 
wonder at the mercy of God in restraining His 
wrath. 

Our dragoman informed us that his father 
had four wives, he being the last child of the 
last wife. He also said that his father had 
divorced one wife. Of course he felt no dis- 
grace attached to such family relationships, 
but even this does not widely differ from fam- 
ilies in civilized lands where there have been di- 
vorces and remarriages,with children who have 
been born in unholy marriage relationships. 




DIVORCED PARENTS WHOSE AM it 



THE CITY OF CAIRO 



59 



Many years ago, when a -Methodist mis- 
sionary in Utah, we listened from day to day 
to the heart-rending stories of family divi- 
sions and quarrels, as related by polygamous 
children, and in our relationship with Chris- 
tian denominations, we have heard stories 
even more pathetic from the lips of children 
whose parents had been divorced and remar- 
ried. May God open up this cesspool of in- 
iquity that is being tolerated by the highest 
ranks of society, and let people look into 
its ghastly depths and become sick and faint at 
heart. Is there no John the Baptist to stand 
on the walls of spiritual Zion and cry out 
against the adulterous lives of those who have 
been divorced and married again while the for- 
mer companions were living! 



CHAPTER IV 



A VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS 

ON February 3d, we visited the Great 
Pyramid. Our dragoman, whose ser- 
vices had been engaged a few days be- 
fore, met our party at the hotel and took us 
across the Nile over the world-famed bridge, 
the "Kasr-el-Nil." The bridge is about 420 
yards in length. The buttresses of solid stone 
are 55 yards apart. The bottom of the foun- 
dation is about 45 feet below the level of the 
river when at its lowest. At each end of the 
bridge are two great lions, which may be seen 
in the accompanying picture, and are not un- 
like those we saw at Trafalgar Square in 
London. 

If the tourist wishes to study the life of the 
Egyptian peasantry, he should visit the bridge 
at an early hour. He will find a picturesque 
and interesting crowd bringing their fresh 
vegetables and wares to market. Camels may 



62 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



be seen with great loads of alfalfa taking up 
as much space as a small haystack. 

From one to three o'clock in the afternoon, 
the bridge is closed for traffic and opened to 
let through the river craft, which have accu- 
mulated and waited many hours. One could 
profitably spend weeks at the bridge alone. 

On reaching the west side of the Nile, we 
took a tram car for the Pyramids. On our 
right side was the famous drive to Gizeh. It 
is claimed there is not a more delightful drive 
in the world than the broad and beautiful av- 
enue which leads from Cairo to the Pyramids 
constructed at the entrance of the desert. We 
have seen the mansions of the millionaires in 
the United States and the palaces of European 
monarchs and kings, but the marble palaces 
on this road excel them all. 

The avenue is lined with motor cars, car- 
riages, mules, camels and donkeys, with men 
and women, from every part of the globe, 
dressed in rich and fashionable attire, touring, 
cycling or driving. In contrast with the ele- 
gant vehicles and costly apparel of the rich, 
are the poorly clad natives with their rudely 
constructed carts laden with fruits and veg- 
etables. Here also may be seen the beggar in 



A VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS 63 

his rags sitting by the wayside, and the 
"fellahin" selling his oranges, nuts and Egyp- 
tian bread. 

When the poor people are unable to pro- 
cure food, they can live on the juice of the 
Egyptian cane. We saw many of them on the 
road making a meal from cane stalks. 

THE PYRAMIDS 

On reaching Gizeh, a small village near the 
foot of the Pyramids, we were besieged by 
natives with their donkeys and dromedaries, 
saddled and ready for use. Either a drom- 
edary or donkey with his driver could be had 
for a shilling an hour. So persistent were 
they, before we had given our consent to en- 
gage their services, they would have their 
dromedaries kneeling by us. We mounted 
one; assisted by two natives we managed to 
keep our seat until the animal was on his feet. 
The riding was much, easier than we supposed 
it would be and we greatly enjoyed the trip 
up to and around the Pyramids and down to 
the Sphinx and the Stone Temple. 

There were so many asking for bakshish 
we were at a loss to know how to turn some 
of them away. Our dragoman told us to pay 



A VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS 



65 



no attention to them. He said if you give 
these natives a pound they will ask for more, 
and they will he as well satisfied with a piaster, 
(five cents) as a pound. But we took note of 
the fact that this was not in keeping with his 
own actions, it took silver and gold to satisfy 
him. We saw a tourist give an Arab a pound 
for some slight service. The latter scarcely no- 
ticed it, showing no appreciation for the amount 
that was given. The people of wealth are 
to blame for this, they have spoiled those who 
do them favors, and all classes are on the con- 
stant lookout for money, whether they do any- 
thing to merit it or not, and it does not make 
much difference to them how they get it. If 
they show a person the way in the street, they 
expect something in return. 

When the owner of a camel noticed that 
one of our party was taking a snap shot of 
the animal, he started toward us crying, ''Bak- 
shish." 

There are many persons of the motley 
throng found in the Orient that can speak a 
few words of English, and stand around and 
wait for an opportunity to act as interpreter 
for those who wish to engage a carriage or 
seek some slight information. If they are 



A VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS 6/ 

even spoken to, they expect money. Some 
people are tried with them to the extreme 
limit, but there is no remedy. 

At the first sight of Cheops, the largest 
pyramid, we felt somewhat disappointed. 
There were many visitors around its base and 
others climbing to the top. This pyramid is 
450 feet high. If we had not seen the sky- 
scrapers of 46 stories of New York City, we 
might have been more deeply moved at the 
sight of the Pyramids, but after having seen 
what human skill and energy have done in the 
erection of these massive buildings in our own 
country, for a time the Pyramids seemed not 
quite to meet our expectations. But after 
more closely observing them and being better 
able to comprehend their dimensions, we began 
to realize something of their immensity. 

The sides of the largest pyramid were 
originally 800 feet, or more than the length 
of three city squares. It is estimated that if 
the stones of this pyramid were made into a 
wall four feet high and one foot thick, it would 
be sufficient to enclose the whole of France. 

At one time this immense structure was 
overlaid with polished granite, which was 



68 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



removed and used in building the mosques of 
Cairo. 

Our guide gave us a brief history of 
Cheops. The king who built it had conquered 
a nation and made a pretense of admitting the 
people to his kingdom, but he immediately de- 
vised plans to kill them off, and put them to 
work building the pyramid, which was to be 
his tomb and monument. The newly made 
slaves were compelled to work with only bread 
and onions and perhaps another vegetable, 
to eat. They had to bring the stones for the 
construction of the Pyramids from the hill 
back of Cairo on the opposite side of the Xile, 
a distance of about ten miles. 

As the result of hard labor, ill-treatment 
and insufficient food, these slaves died by the 
thousands. All that died in any one day were 
buried in one excavation in the ground. 

In the center of the Great Pyramid, the 
sarcophagus and remains of this tyrant were 
found. 

When we take into consideration the cru- 
elty of an earthly monarch, who would sacri- 
fice a race of people to build a tomb for him- 
self, we can get some idea of how far human 
tyranny and ambition will reach. 



70 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIEXT 



Egypt, with its rise and fall of kingdoms 
and its slavery of human beings, which has been 
practiced since its earliest history, will cer- 
tainly have an important part in the day of 
Judgment. 

In the Museum of Cairo, we looked into 
the face of Rameses as his body lay in 
a glass case in an open square. His feat- 
ures were remarkably distinct. One would have 
thought that he had lived but a few years ago. 
Providentially, the Egyptian art of embalming 
the human body has been lost to the world. 
God is trying to teach people that the earth 
in its present sinful condition can not stand, 
that those who have been created from the 
dust must to the dust return. 

When people or nations know not God, the 
tendency is to try to preserve the lifeless body. 
If they knew God they would remember that 
He told Adam that it must return to dust. 

After viewing the Pyramid until we were 
fairly dazed by the heights to which the 
tourists were climbing, we turned toward the 
Sphinx several hundred yards away. Here 
we found a colossal figure 125 feet long and 
50 feet high, — the body of a lion with the face 



72 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



of a woman, all of its outlines being clearly 
distinguishable. 

Our guide said the natives had searched in 
vain for the animal which they supposed this 
figure represented. Near the Sphinx is the 
ancient Stone Temple. We paid a shilling each 
for admittance and were taken through 
its various chambers. Its great red columns 
are of polished granite. Parts of the Temple 
and of the floor are of white alabaster. The 
history of this temple is one of the recent dis- 
coveries of Egypt. It is said to have been 
built by the king that succeeded Cheops. 

After returning to the Great Pyramid and 
watching one of our party ascend and descend 
it we visited the Dancing Dervishes and then 
returned to the city, weary with the work of 
the day, but feeling well paid. How thank- 
ful we are that the Lord in His good prov- 
idence let us visit the country where His an- 
cient people were once enslaved. Their whole 
history and marvelous deliverance was 
brought vividly before us, and the flight of 
ages seemed only a moment of time. 

Egypt is a type of the carnal nature and 
the world power, and the plagues that were 
sent upon Pharaoh who refused to let the 



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74 MY IR:p T«J THE ORIENT 

children of Israel- go show how God will de- 
stroy sin in the human heart and deliver those 
who are engaged in His service. 

inis eartn is cestmed to re itt ace over 
anew, and the world, or Egyptian power, must 
be destroyed. \\ hen Moses ashed Pharaoh 

to God he refused. He was willing to let 
then: offer sacrifice in Egypt, but God would 
not permit this. The Egyptians would have 
stoned them and there had to be a separation. 

Before people can trtily serve the living 
God v:ey must separate memsewes iron: a;, 
that is unholy. No one can have ungodly 
associations and live a Christian life, — he 
must break with those who are in rebellion 



had become a separate people. Some of them 
had become so depraved and demoralized 
through Egyptian practices and associations 
they could not be kept in bounds after they had 
escaped from Pharaoh's kingdom. The law 
was given to rein then: up. but many of them 
rebelled and were smitten. 



A VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS 



75 



After people have been truly born of the 
Spirit, they are often tempted to return to 
their old habits and practices. It is there- 
fore necessary that they should be kept 
under the strictest discipline, especially the 
young, for the tendency is to long for the 
things that have been left behind, and in their 
instruction it takes line upon line, precept upon 
precept, here a little and there a little (Isa. 28: 
10-13). The old denominations have failed to 
discipline their people, hence the cause of their 
great apostasy. 

Many have the idea that they can run riot 
and engage in all kinds of sinful pleasures 
and then turn in time to escape the eternal 
fires, but such people will awaken to the fact, 
sooner or later, that they must reap just what 
they have sown. When one commits sin he 
does so at great cost, there is nothing so dear 
as sinful pleasures. 

MOHAMMEDANS 

The Moslem religion has controlled the 
people of Egypt for the past 1,300 years and 
kept them in a half-civilized state. The Mo- 
hammedans believe that women have no souls 
and that in no sense are they on an equality 



HIGH CASTE EGYPTIAN WOMAN 



. EGYPT AND THE EGYPTIANS 77 

with men. Women occupy the place of slaves 
and are not even permitted to enter the 
mosques. They are compelled to mourn for 
the dead, and on funeral occasions they are 
conducted through the streets clad in black, 
riding on rude vehicles drawn by donkeys or 
cattle. Their heads are always covered, and 
their faces veiled. 

No man is allowed to look into the faces 
of these women except their brothers and hus- 
bands. Some of them, of the wealthier classes, 
are richly dressed and ride about the city in 
carriages. Women scarcely ever accompany 
the men on the streets or highways, unless it 
be of the poorer classes, where the men ride 
while they walk and carry the burden. 



CHAPTER V 



EGYPT AND THE EGYPTIANS 

EGYPT, with its remote civilization, fur- 
nishes the student with a wider scope 
for historical research than any other 
country on the globe. The hieroglyphics 
carved in granite in the ages past, reveal much 
of the life, habits and religious worship of the 
people, that otherwise would have been lost to 
the world. In addition to this, bodies that 
were embalmed centuries before Christ, are in 
a state of preservation. 

Through the discoveries in Egypt, God has 
proved to the world that He could write a 
book that time could not efface, the pages 
of which are often found hundreds of feet 
below the surface of the earth. 

The great Museum at Cairo is filled with 
the relics of antiquity, which would take vol- 
umes to describe. A few hours spent here 
brings us face to face with this remarkable, 



EGYPT AND THE EGYPTIANS 



79 



illustrated book, written in tablets of stone. 
We imagined that we could almost hear the 
kings and queens and others speak as we 
looked upon their features that had been so 
perfectly traced by the sculptor. Stones, 
archways and many other pieces of or- 
namentation are there, which were a part 
of the magnificent structures in which these 
rulers lived. The bodies (mummies) of the 
ancient rulers, the features of which are 
clearly outlined, have been taken from 
the granite sarcophagi and placed on exhi- 
bition. These tombs are of enormous weight 
and have been brought from their resting 
places at the expense of much labor and money. 
They are covered with carved figures, which 
were used as a means of communication by the 
ancients. Since some recent discoveries, this 
picture-writing on the stone caskets is better 
understood. 

The history of Egypt begins with Genesis, 
and we follow it through all the books of the 
Old Testament. Egypt symbolizes the fleshly, 
or carnal nature that is at* strife with the 
new man of the heart. It portrays the "old 
man," always in hot pursuit of the spiritual 
child, seeking to take his life. Egypt is the 



PICTURE-WRITING AND EGYPTIAN OBELISK 



EGYPT AND THE EGYPTIANS 



8l 



mother of Ishmael, who sought to slay Isaac. 
God called Abram out of Ur of Chaldea to 
go into the land of Canaan which He gave to 
him and his posterity as an inheritnace. Soon 
after reaching Canaan, a famine arose in the 
land, and he took Sarai, his wife, and went 
into Egypt. Here Hagar, an Egyptian 
woman, became Sarai's maid. Sarai was a 
woman fair to look upon, but was barren. 
Abram feared that the Egyptians would give 
him trouble on account of her beauty and used 
strategy to deceive them in regard to his re- 
lationship to her, but this only made matters 
worse. Pharaoh's princes who saw her, re- 
ported to their master, and the heathen king 
had her brought to his own house, ignorant of 
the fact that she was Abram's wife. When 
he found the secret out, he sent Abram a^vay 
with her and all of his belongings. If God 
had not plagued Pharaoh's house, he would 
have kept her. 

Sarai symbolizes the true Church. When 
Israel, as a nation, backslid, stoned their 
prophets, crucified their Messiah and rejected 
the Holy Ghost, God's judgments fell upon 
them and they were left in desolation, and 
from that time the true Church has been 



6 



82 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



with the Gentiles. There is no spiritual moth- 
erhood in Israel. "Blindness in part is hap- 
pened to Israel, until the fulness of the Gen- 
tiles be come in." For more than two thou- 
sand years the veil has been over their faces, 
and their enemies have tri- 
umphed over them. Sarai, in 
the house of Pharaoh, symbol- 
izes this Church. It was not 
God's plan for Abraham to re- 
main in Egypt, therefore He 
plagued the house of Pharaoh 
in order to get him back to Ca- 
naan where Sarai, whose 
name now became Sarah, 
brought forth Isaac, the spir- 
itual child. There is a re- 
markable symbolism here. 
God's judgments will again 
fall upon the Gentiles and Is- 
rael will be delivered and be- 
come the conservators of 
true religion. It is evident that the time is 
near at hand. 

Before Isaac was born, in order to take 
away the reproach of a childless home, Sarah 
gave her Egyptian maid to Abram that an 




EGYPT AND THE EGYPTIANS 



83 



heir might be born unto him. The result was 
that Ishmael, a child of the flesh, was born, 
whom God declared should not be His heir. 
Later, Sarah, in her old age, conceived and 
brought forth Isaac, the child of the Spirit 
(Gal. 4). Ishmael, the Egyptian, mocked and 
persecuted Isaac, and would have succeeded 
in slaying him if Sarah had not refused to let 
him and his bond-mother stay in the home. 

Ishmael, whose mother was an Egyptian, 
also symbolizes the fleshly or carnal nature, 
which exists in the human heart after the new 
birth. In common phraseology, he was a chip 
off the old block. The child of the flesh al- 
ways persecutes the child of the Spirit. Sarah 
watched the proceedings from day to day and 
saw the danger her son was in, and frankly de- 
clared that Ishmael could not be heir with Isaac, 
neither should he remain in the same house. 

When the child of the flesh was cast out 
into the desert, the strife was ended and there 
was peace in the home. And so it is when 
the soul is sanctified wholly. The strife be- 
tween the old and the new natures is brought 
to an end and the heart becomes the temple 
of the Holy Spirit, where He continually 
abides. Sarah showed true motherhood when 



84 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



she cast out the son of the bondwoman. The 
true Church will wage vigorous warfare 
against the carnal nature. Otherwise the 
spiritual life will be destroyed and the Egyp- 
tian nature will predominate in the heart. 

Moses chose rather to suffer affliction with 
the people of God, than to be called the son 
of Pharaoh's daughter and enjoy the pleasures 
of sin for a season. The secret of his birth 
not having been disclosed, he was marvelously 
preserved through the early years of his life. 
He was a true Hebrew, even though he was 
fostered by the daughter of a heathen king. 
The offer of a throne and scepter was no in- 
ducement to him to forsake his own people. 
For many years he kept the secret of his birth 
from Pharaoh's house. To have disclosed it 
would have been at the peril of his life and that 
of his people. But the time came when the pent- 
up loyalty of his heart had to have an outlet, 
and before he was scarcely aware of it the op- 
portunity presented itself. He had looked upon 
the oppression of his people from day to day 
until he could no longer forbear. Exodus 
2:11-12 says, "And it came to pass in those 
days, when Moses was grown, that he went 
out unto his brethren, and looked on their bur- 




DESCENDING THE PYRAMID 



86 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



dens: and he spied an Egyptian smiting an 
Hebrew, one of his brethren. And he looked 
this way and that way, and when he saw that 
there was no man, he slew the Egyptian, and 
hid him in the sand." 

Moses is a type of Christ ; God raised him 
up to deliver His people from bondage and he 
was anxiously awaiting the opportunity. The 
slaying of the Egyptian and the burial of him 
in the sand shows how Christ slays the man 
of sin in the human heart, or, in other words. 
♦ the second work of grace. When Moses killed 
the man, he supposed that no one knew 
what he had done, but it could not be hid. The 
next day while trying to make peace between 
two of his brethren, he was accused by one of 
them of wanting to kill him as he did the 
Egyptian. When he learned that the secret 
was out, he fled for his life, knowing that Phar- 
aoh would pursue him. 

And so it is when a person is sanctified/ the 
powers of darkness array themselves against 
him. When the progeny of Adam the first is cut 
ofif opposition will arise from those who have 
the Egyptian, or carnal nature. Spiritual war- 
fare is raging between sin and righteousness, 
and people must take sides. To allow the man of 



EGYPT AND THE EGYPTIANS 



87 



sin to live when the time comes for his execu- 
tion means to forfeit salvation, and serve the 
king of darkness. 

Egypt is the mother of the old nature. God 
has made her, with her relics of by-gone ages, 
an object lesson for spiritual instruction, which 
perfectly accords with the written Word. The 
Bible is not the only book which gives the his- 
tory of the son of the perverse woman, who 
had to be cast out into the desert. Another 
book, as before stated, now lies open to be read, 
much of which has been buried for centuries, 
and the whole world is invited to study it and to 
scan the ghastly features of Ishmael, the child 
of the flesh. 

The temples and statuary of ancient Egypt, 
together with the Pyramids, are drawing 
people from Europe and America, and in 
fact every country on the globe. Many have 
become so fascinated with the charms of Egypt 
and the study of these relics, that they are 
not satisfied to be sightseers only, but are now 
building magnificent houses and settling on the 
banks of the Nile to spend the rest of their day s. 

After visiting Egypt, the Old Testament 
brims with new life and inspiration. 



CHAPTER VI 



MOHAMMEDAN FUNERALS, WEDDINGS AND 
BIRTHS 

WHILE in Cairo, we frequently saw 
Moslem funeral processions. The bier 
was carried on the shoulders of four 
or six men with people of all classes enmassed 
about them. 

In the rear were women dressed in black 
with veiled faces riding in carts, or sitting on 
boards across the running gear of wagons. 
Among them were the mourning women who 
have an important part at the grave, where 
their pitiful wails awaken the emotions even 
of those who are least concerned. 

Females are not allowed in the places of 
prayer, but their presence is always welcome 
at funerals. If a father or husband should 
be buried, they bewail the loss of their bread- 
winner. 

The homely vehicles on which they ride 
are drawn by donkeys, mules or oxen. The 
procession sometimes consists of hundreds or 
even thousands of people. 



FUNERALS, WEDDINGS AND BIRTHS 89 



If death occurs in the morning, the fun- 
eral takes place the same day. Or if it occurs 
in the afternoon it is posponed until the ne^t 
morning. When the breath leaves the body 
it is washed and mourned over by the family 
and the mourning women. It is then wrapped 
in a winding sheet and placed on a bier, cov- 
ered with red or green cloth, and carried forth 
in solemn procession. 

At funerals blind men are placed at the 
front, who walk slowly, repeating the same 
words over and over, "There is no God, but 
God; Mohammed is the ambassador of God. 
God be gracious to him and preserve him." 
The blind men are followed by the male rela- 
tives of the deceased, and sometimes by a num- 
ber of dervishes with flags of their order. 

A person carries the Koran on a covered 
stand. A number of boys usually chant in 
loud, shrill voices several passages describing 
the last Judgment. Then comes the bier, with 
relatives and friends in every-dav attire, and 
the female relatives sobbing aloud. These are 
accompanied by the mourning women, whose 
business it is to extol the merits of the de- 
ceased. Female relatives will cry, "O thou 
camel of my house" (the camel being the em- 



FUNERALS, WEDDINGS AND BIRTHS 91 

blem of the breadwinner of the household). 

Before the burial takes place the body is 
carried into a mosque, where prayers are 
offered in behalf of the dead. There is 
always the tomb of a saint in the mosque 
before which the body is placed and pray- 
ers and chants are again recited. The 
procession then forms anew and moves to- 
ward the cemetery. The body is let down 
a perpendicular shaft to a vault excavated 
on one side of it, and then placed in such 
position that the face is turned toward 
Mecca. The entrance of the lateral vault is 
then walled up and during the long process the 
mourners cry, ''God pardon the Moslem men 
and Moslem women." 

A person then turns to the dead and ad- 
dresses him, informing him how he is to an- 
swer the two examining angels who are to 
question him during the ensuing night. While 
the perpendicular shaft is being filled up, the 
mourners incessantly repeat the words, "In the 
the name of God be merciful; In the name of 
God be merciful !•" The merpbers then dis- 
appear, and the mourning women come for- 
ward to inspect the tomb. Moslems believe 
that the soul remains with the body three days 



9 2 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



after death. Such is the darkness and super- 
stition of the deluded followers of Mohammed. 

The birth of a child is celebrated on the 
seventh day of its life by a domestic festival 
attended by some learned theologian. 

The mother takes the child when it is forty 
days old to the bath and causes forty bowls 
of water to be poured over its head. If the 
infant is a girl thirty-nine bowls. This bath 
forms the purification of both the mother and 
the child. 

The rite of circumcision is performed on 
boys up to the age of seven years. The cer- 
emony is attended with great pomp. The 
child, is conducted through, the streets in hol- 
iday attire. The barber who performs the op- 
eration accompanied by a noisy troupe of mu- 
sicians takes the lead. 

Girls are usually married in their twelfth 
or thirteenth year, and sometimes, as early as 
their tenth year. A man in search of a bride 
employs a near relative or a woman who is a 
professional matchmaker. If he is of high 
caste he is not permitted to see his bride 
until the wedding day. When everything; 
is ready, the bridegroom is supposed to pay 
about twenty-five pounds if the bride is a 



> 
> 

M 
> 

c 

H 

hd 

c 

n 

in 

M 

o 



94 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



widow. If she is a spinster, he has to pay 
more. The amount to be paid down is always 
a subject of much discussion, usually it is two- 
thirds, the remainder being settled upon the 
w r ife and paid to her upon the death of the 
husband, or if she should be divorced against 
her will- 
Before the wedding, the bride is conducted 
in gala attire with great pomp and ceremony 
to the bath. The procession is headed by musi- 
cians with hautboys and drums. Then follow 
relatives of the bride in pairs, after these 
young girls. The bride is entirely concealed 
by the clothes she wears, usually covered from 
head to foot in a cashmere shawl. 

x\s the company moves slowly along, hid- 
eous shrieks of joy may be heard from women 
of the lower classes. After the wedding, the 
bride is attended with the same ceremony to the 
house of her husband. She may be divorced at 
the will of her husband for the slightest offense. 

Everywhere harems may be seen, with 
closed shutters, especially among the wealthier 
classes. Only women of the peasantry are 
seen mingling with the throng in the public 
thoroughfares. 



CHAPTER VII 



FROM ALEXANDRIA TO JAFFA 

ON February 9th, we left Alexandria 
enroute to Jaffa. We had gone on 
board the "Orenoque" the evening be- 
fore. At eight o'clock in the morning we 
were on deck to get a last glimpse of the port. 
As our vessel moved out of the harbor, a most 
wonderful sight was presented to our view. 
All kinds of steamships, sailing vessels and the 
rude barks of the natives were intermingled in 
the harbor. Great cargoes were being unloaded 
by the Egyptians who kept up a continual 
jabbering and shouting at one another. Other 
vessels were loading up. The freight is all 
handled by the natives, who, with great brawny 
muscles and bare feet, work like beavers until 
their task is done. 

There were some magnificent vessels lying 
in the harbor, floating American, British and 
other flags. 



9 6 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



We have stood on the piers of the great 
seaports of the American and European con- 
tinents, but as we contemplated the future we 
felt that some day this would be the world's 
great maritime center. We believe it will play 
an important part in the transportation and 
protection of the Jews when they are gathered 
back to the land of their fathers. The angel 
of inspiration seemed to linger close by, and 
our mind went back over the past four thous- 
and years of Egyptian history. We had looked 
into the faces of their kings, examined their 
temples and tombs, learned something of their 
manner of communication, and the gods they 
worshiped. We thought of the mighty de- 
liverance God gave the children of Israel 
under the leadership of Moses, and their 
birth as a nation. We saw that vast throng 
wandering through the wilderness, after, in 
the providence of Jehovah, they had been so 
wonderfully liberated, and the destroying angel 
had slain the first born of their foes. We could 
almost hear Moses' song of deliverance, which 
climaxed the literary productions of his day. 
Miriam's voice was heard above all the 
women . whom she led forth with timbrels, 
and with dances. Moses said, "I will 



FROM ALEXANDRIA . TO JAFFA r 97 

sing unto the Lord, for he hath triumphed 
gloriously: the horse and his rider hath 
he thrown into the sea" (Exodus 15:1), 
This song of victory was used in celebrating 
the birth of a new nation, symbolic of the con- 
version of a soul. There are songs of. joy 
when a soul has been delivered from the bond- 
age of sin. And it is God's purpose to lead 
one whose heart has thus been transformed 
by grace into the Canaan of rest. The wan- 
derings of the children of Israel in the desert 
marked the path of disobedience. They should 
have hastened to the Promised Land and 
claimed their inheritance, but weary years of 
confusion and suffering came as a result of 
their doubting God and refusing to go in and 
possess the land. How many new-born souls 
tarry in the wilderness until their opportunity 
is lost, and thus they forfeit the great expe- 
rience that God has in store for them ! 

There were only about twelve hours ahead 
of us until we should reach the Suez Canal. 
The construction of this canal is one of the 
great achievements of modern times. It has 
been the means of opening up the east- 
ern portion of the Asiatic Continent, and mil- 
lions who have worshiped at the shrines of 
7 



FROM ALEXANDRIA TO JAFFA 99 

heathen gods are gradually becoming en- 
lightened. 

We reached Port Said about eight o'clock 
in the evening. Our vessel was anchored near 
a large British steamship carrying 400 soldiers 
to India. We appreciate the fact that the Brit- 
ish had gotten a foothold in that country, 
where for so many centuries the thralldom of 
human beings has been so great. The 
military powers can do much to enlighten the 
heathen. Where men will not be persuaded 
to put away error, it is often necessary to use 
force. It takes law to teach them their first 
lesson. As soon as the children of Israel es- 
caped from Egyptian bondage, God put them 
under law. He did this to restrain their ap- 
petites and passions, and to teach them the 
difference between the clean and the unclean. 

The voyage from Alexandria to Port Said 
in many respects was more interesting than 
that on any other part of the Mediterranean. 
After leaving Alexandria, we found it 
rather rough sailing. There were some indica- 
tions of a storm. The sun would burst through 
the clouds and quickly disappear. In the 
meantime; the rays were falling on other parts 
of the sea, producing the most beautiful shades 



JOO 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



imaginable. There were all the colors of the 
rainbow. 

We thought of the portals of the glory 
world and wondered if when we come in 
sight of the city not made with hands we 
shall be more enraptured. 

The day was without any special events, 
any more than that of passing the ''Caronia," 
of the Cunard line. The passengers turned 
their glasses on us and salutations were ex- 
changed. 

While our ship was lying in the harbor at 
Port Said, we noticed the stewards and of- 
ficers were careful to keep doors and windows 
closed. The natives come out and board the 
ships in Eastern ports without any hesitation. 
Oftentimes they are driven back by force, 
but will watch for a good opportunity to re- 
turn. 

Early the next morning there were marked 
indications that a severe storm was approach- 
ing. All day the machinery was in operation 
unloading the freight, and the natives in their 
strange costumes besieged the ship from morn- 
ing till night. At four o'clock in the after- 
noon passengers began to come on board who 
had arrived from Cairo. To our surprise 



FROM ALEXANDRIA TO JAFFA IOI 

there were a number of persons among them 
whom we had met on the "Congo/' They had 
made a trip up the Nile, and hastened back 
to continue their voyage on the "Orenoque." 
Some of them were delighted to see us and to 
renew the acquaintance. 

The passengers w 7 ere being transferred 
from small boats to the ship in a gale, and 
every moment it was becoming more hazard- 
ous. During the strife between the natives in 
trying to outdo one another, two of them fell 
overboard. It was amusing to see the boat- 
men trying to manage their frail barks and 
rescue their unfortunate friends at the same 
time. In spite of our efforts to be serious wt 
were almost convulsed with laughter. An 
evil angel seemed to say, "I will pay you for 
this/' The small boats, which were being lashed 
by the waves were bobbing up and down mak- 
ing it almost impossible for the boatmen 
to keep their footing, especially when they were 
transferring baggage and fruit to the large 
vessel. While we were looking upon the 
scene with pity and amusement, the hat of one 
of our party was blown away, and was taken 
so quickly no one saw in what direction it went. 

Many times we regretted that we were un- 



> 

'Si 



FROM ALEXANDRIA TO JAFFA IO3 

able to understand what the Moslems were 
saying. They kept up a continual jabber- 
ing and contention, yet they never seemed to be 
very angry with one another. Money is their 
object, — piasters, francs and shillings, — Egyp- 
tian, French and English money. They have 
their eyes especially on the Americans; they 
imagine that they have "all kinds of money." 
When we reached Alexandria, we were told 
they cried out, "A new religion has come from 
America." The people in foreign lands look 
upon America as being the birthplace of 
many new religions. Some who could 
speak a few words of broken English ventured 
to ask what Pillar of Fire meant. Our uni- 
forms made them more reserved than they 
otherwise would have been. They had seen 
nothing like them before, and of course were at 
a loss to know how to approach us. 

A STORM AT SEA 

We were expecting to leave Port Said Fri- 
day evening, but the storm that had been brew- 
ing for many hours was upon us. Because 
of the protest of the passengers and others, 
the Captain consented to wait a while. But be- 
fore day the next morning he became anxious 



104 MY TRIP T0 THE ORIENT 



and put out to sea. The ship, although se- 
curely anchored, had been rocking fiercely all 
night, but at twenty minutes past four she was 
moving out of the harbor. For twelve hours 
she was held in the embrace of the storm, 
furiously lashed and tossed. At times there 
would seem to be no possible hope of keeping 
her afloat. There was a terrific stroke of 
lightning which struck the ship somewhere 
above water line, but no great damage was 
done. With but few exceptions, there was 
a death-like stupor over all the passengers. 
Some of them were too ill to answer 
when they were spoken to. We noticed 
a number of them who tried to get from 
the dining room to their cabins, but did not 
succeed without help. It took faith and cour- 
age to keep up at times, but we knew, with 
the help of the Lord, it was possible to do so, 
and did not give up. 

There was no possibility, in such a storm, 
of landing at Jaffa, which has no enclosed 
harbor, and the Captain and crew thought 
it advisable to turn toward Cyprus. They 
did so, but later the ship was headed for 
Beyrout, Syria, reaching there Sunday morn- 
ing at 7: 30. 



FROM ALEXANDRIA TO JAFFA 105 

During the worst of the storm it seemed 
impossible for some to realize our peril. Those 
who suffer greatly from seasickness are not 
afraid of a grave in the deep. The fact is 
they would just about as soon die as live, 
and some have been known to jump overboard 
rather than to suffer, longer. Those who 
have never had an experience of seasickness 
are apt to speak of it lightly, and look upon 
it as a joke. But should they have an expe- 
rience themselves, they will find out that it is 
sometimes a serious thing. 

Word had been telegraphed to different 
places on land that the "Orenoque" had been 
lost in the storm. When the Captain heard 
this it made him very angry, and his wrath 
was kindled anew when he saw the people com- 
ing out at Bey rout to see the vessel which they 
supposed was lost at sea. 

It might interest our readers to know some- 
thing of our experience during the storm. We 
must confess that we did not realize the ship 
was in such danger. This was from the fact 
that we had been in a worse storm the year 
before. While other passengers were suf- 
fering greatly, we sang songs from the Pillar 
of Fire Praises and never felt more like re- 



io6 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



joicing. One of our party said he would not 
have missed the experience for a great deal. 
We did not know that our singing had en- 
couraged the passengers until we reached Bey- 
rout, when expressions came from different 
ones as to how they were helped and en- 
couraged. Certainly such experiences are 
priceless to those who trust alone in God. In 
time of greatest danger we sang, 

"No water can swallow the ship where lies 
The Master of ocean "and earth and skies.'' 

He was the Captain of our salvation and 
taught others how true Christians can rejoice 
at all times. 

We remained on board the ship until Mon- 
day, when we were transferred to the"Sadieh," 
a Khedevial mail steamer for Jaffa. Monday 
we had an opportunity of seeing something of 
Beyrout. We were taken ashore by Syrians, 
who had watched us from the time we had 
reached the port in hope of getting something 
to do. 

The narrow streets of the city were quite 
different from some we had seen in Alexan- 
dria and Cairo, and were literally lined with 
wares for sale. We scarcely dared to look to 
the right hand or to the left, lest we should give 



PEACE, BE STILL 



108 MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 

some one the idea that we wanted to purchase 
something. 

This was the first city we visited that was 
wholly under the control of the Turks, and 
while the religion is the same in Egypt, as here, 
we could see a marked difference. We began to 
feel, as never before, the curse of this Power 
and what a menace it is to the human race. 
We sat at their tables and ate with them. 
While they seemed to be friendly enough, 
we knew their treachery and the fact that when 
once the beast is aroused in them there are no 
extremes of cruelty to which they will not go. 

To describe their houses and thoroughfares 
so our readers would understand how they 
looked to us would be impossible. We saw the 
Turkish soldiers marching in Beyrout. They 
look upon achievements in war as man's great- 
est glory. The deeper they can wade in 
the blood of infidels, as they call those who 
differ from them in religion, the greater they 
believe will be their reward in the life to come. 
This is the basis of the Mohammedan religion. 

Great Britian has come so close to them in 
the protectorate which she holds over Egypt 
the Turks are becoming intimidated and have 
awaken to the fact that their bloodthirsty 



FROM ALEXANDRIA TO JAFFA IOQ 

wars will not be tolerated by the more enlight- 
ened powers of the earth. Rapid changes are 
undoubtedly taking place, and slowly but surely 
they must succumb to the verdict of all, — 
'The Turk must go!" 

When we think of the tyranny of the Turks 
over the sons of Jocob and how they con- 
tinue to hold their ancient patrimony, it stirs 
us to the depths, and we cry, "How long, O 
Lord, how long shall this be?" 

Our ship was expected in the early part of 
the afternoon, but was somewhat disabled on 
account of the storm, and delayed. To the joy 
of those w r ho had been waiting for many days 
for a boat to Jaffa, she arrived at 3.30 p. m. 
She was sailing under the English flag, with 
Scotch and English officers. 

Even though the French were unable to 
land us at Jaffa they were unwilling for us to 
go on a Turkish vessel and discouraged every 
effort We made to get passage on any vessel 
but the "Sadieh." The wind was somewhat 
contrary when we went aboard and some pre- 
dicted that we should not be able to land at 
Jaffa, but the Lord showed us clearly that they 
were mistaken and that we should have a safe 
landing the next day. 



no 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



The next morning we awakened after a 
good night's rest, with the blessing of the Lord 
on our soul. A few hours later we reached 
Haifa and went out on deck to see the passen- 
gers transferred to and from the little boats 
that had come out to meet the ship, which was 
anchored, perhaps a quarter of a mile from 
land. There was great strife as usual among 
the boatmen, but a worse scramble for pas- 
sengers and baggage than we had seen be- 
fore. They actually knocked one another 
down on the steps. All was disorder and con- 
fusion. It was said that no boat had landed 
there for nine days and they were desperate 
for a few francs and shillings. 

We noticed five men, two women and two 
children in a small boat, talking loudly. The 
women with their heavily veiled faces were 
more demonstrative than the men, they were 
doing their best to induce others to make way 
for them to come on board the ship, but they 
were not making much progress. Two intel- 
ligent looking men who stood near us kept 
shouting out to them in Arabic. One of them 
spoke with authority. He cried out in English, 
"Drive the chief of the robbers back! If he 
comes up the steps we will clash water on him." 



FROM ALEXANDRIA TO JAFFA III 

I ventured to ask him if there was so much 
difficulty usually in getting passengers on and 
off the vessels. He replied, "No, I have never 
seen it quite like this/' He wore no uniform, 
but I felt that he was the Captain. About 
this time the Russian Consul, who was on 
board, was taken to a small boat. He was ac- 
companied by a native in gorgeous apparel, 
the uniform of a servant to a high official. 
Some one said the Russian Consul was a fine 
gentleman. After an hour of confusion and 
almost desperation on the part of those who 
were trying to get off and on the ship a person 
who was trying to get on board was thrust 
back bodily by an officer and a moment later 
the steps, or ladder, was taken up. We learned 
then that the man with whom we had been con- 
versing was the Captain. He told us that these 
men and women whom he had called "robbers" 
were from a cholera-infected district and if 
they had been allowed to come on board the 
ship would have had to go into quarantine. 
It takes a firm and experienced officer to know 
how to handle such persons. 

JAFFA 

'Our ship was soon headed toward Jaffa. 
When in our cabin we opened the Bible; our 



112 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



eyes fell on Acts 10:9, which reads as follows, 
li On the morrow, as they went on their jour- 
ney, and drew nigh unto the city, Peter went 
Up upon the housetop to pray about the sixth 
hour." It seemed remarkable that we should 
open to this scripture when within but a few- 
hours of the very spot where Peter had the vis- 
ion of the sheet being let down with the four- 
footed beasts and all manner of creeping 
things. The Spirit of the Lord came upon us 
as we read a part of the chapter, and the pres- 
sure became so great we felt the earthen vessel 
could bear no more. We thought of the Jews 
and the desolation of their country and the aw- 
ful poverty and woe of the half-barbarous peo- 
ple living under Mohammedan rule. For 
nearly a month we had been studying the Mos- 
lems, most of whom seem to be striving for a 
mere existence. 

The Spirit flashed the truth upon us and 
showed us that in our experience in the storm 
on the French vessel, and its being unable to 
land us at Jaffa, God was trying to teach us 
an important lesson. We had been wondering 
how He was going to bring about a transfor- 
mation among the followers of Mohammed, 
break the power of Turkey, and give the Jews 



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ii4 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



back their own land. We were now sailing to 
Jaffa under the British flag, with a Scotch 
captain, who had driven the robbers back and 
saved us from quarantine and whatever else 
might have followed as the result of those des- 
perate men's coming on board. 

We saw under the light of the Spirit that 
God is going to use the British in some way in 
the liberation of the Jews from Gentile bond- 
age. It is reasonable that they should be 
used in wresting the land from the Turks. 
He has given them the supremacy of the sea 
and wherever the English flag floats, it 
means protection and liberty. Our tears 
flowed freely, and our heart throbbed 
with glad anticipation of the change that we 
believe is near at hand. This experience almost 
prostrated us in body, and we went to bed and 
slept two hours, awakening just as the"Sadieh" 
was drawing near to Jaffa. The sea was 
calm and the sun was shining, after all the in- 
dications of storm there had been in the 
morning. 

With a prophetic eye we looked into the fu- 
ture and saw Jaffa as the world's greatest sea- 
port, — the identical place where Peter had the 
vision of all nations' coming under the priv- 



FROM ALEXANDRIA TO JAFFA I 1 5 

ileges of the Gospel. We could see a great har- 
bor with ships bringing the riches of the Gen- 
tiles to Jerusalem in fulfilment of God's word. 
How we longed for this to be brought about! 
May the forces be put in operation that will 
speedily consummate God's plans in the Res- 
toration. Surely He cannot endure much 
longer the desolation of Zion. 



CHAPTER VIII 



JAFFA AND JERUSALEM 

WHEN we reached Jaffa, we were ex- 
pecting more difficulty in landing than 
we had had before, and decided to se- 
cure the best service possible. A tall Syrian 
gallantly escorted us to a small boat and landed 
us safe on the shore. He assisted us in get- 
ting through the Custom House, and provided 
a carriage to take us to the hotel. Our visit 
in Egypt somewhat prepared us for the scenes 
that greeted us here. We saw much more 
destitution than at Alexandria and Cairo. 
Some of the beggars on the roadside were 
lepers. 

In the afternoon we secured the services 
of a guide from Jerusalem, who took us in a 
carriage to the various places of interest at 
Jaffa. On the way he talked to us about the 
storm that had been raging on sea and land for 
many days. He said the like had not been 



i 



JAFFA AND JERUSALEM 



117 



known on that coast for thirty years, and that 
the damage to the orange groves was estimated 
at sixty thousand pounds. We saw a number 
of groves where the oranges had been beaten 
off the trees and piled up while they were yet 
green. 

We wondered why the Lord saw fit to take 
us to Palestine at such a time as this, but it 
must be remembered that we were on an er- 
rand for Him, and He wanted us to know the 
worst of the climate, and the suffering of the 
people under the most unfavorable conditions. 

We were much interested in the conver- 
sation with our interpreter, who spoke English 
with fluency. He was no ordinary person 
in his profession, but the best the country 
afforded, being in the employ of the Grand 
New Hotel of Jerusalem. There is not much 
satisfaction in talking to a person when half 
he says cannot be understood. 

We visited the house of Simon the Tanner, 
and on the way, as we followed through a 
narrow passage-way, where the carriage could 
not go, we w r ere besieged by children asking 
for bakshish; their parents were looking on 
and evidently had trained them to be^. Our 
guide would shout at them to drive them away. 



JAFFA AND JERUSALEM II9 

When we reached the place where, it is claimed, 
the house of Simon the Tanner stood, we 
found a Moslem praying on a rug. He tried 
to appear very devout. 

A flight of stone steps led to the roof of 
the house, which is supposed to have replaced 
the one on which Peter had the vision. There 
is a well at this place which Moslems claim 
is the well of Simon the Tanner. 

Our guide took us over a road leading 
through orange groves to a Greek Catholic 
monastery. The priests officiating in the 
chapel were very courteous. On the walls 
were numerous hand-painted pictures of Christ 
and the Virgin. The various pictures of the 
Crucifixion were painted life-size and must 
have been placed in the church at great ex- 
pense. There was a winding stairway to the 
top of the building, where we obtained a view 
of the city, with its beautiful orange groves 
stretching northward and eastward. The 
green trees laden w r ith yellow fruit made us 
think of the good time coming, when the sons 
of Jacob will possess their patrimony and the 
land will bud and blossom as the rose. 

The orange trade is the chief industry of 



120 MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 

Jaffa, and should the crop fail, the poor people 
suffer greatly, often becoming utterly destitute 
of food and clothing. 

There is not a more beautiful and congenial 
climate to be found in winter than Jaffa 
affords. It is quite different from the Leb- 
anon Mountains, near Beyrout, or the hills of 
Zion. If we had been seeking health and a 
place to pass the time, no doubt we should have 
tarried here many weeks, but we were on a 
different mission. 

Near the Greek Church, we visited the so- 
called tomb of Dorcas. There were a number 
of other tombs in the cave, which it is claimed 
were those of her relatives. We felt quite 
sure that this was not the real tomb of Dor- 
cas, but only a place to allure travelers 
in order to get their money. Money-getting 
is the one great object in the Holy Land. Mer- 
chandise is made of all such places. 

Early on the morning of February 15th, we 
took the train from Jaffa to Jerusalem, a dis- 
tance of fifty-three miles. It was a delightful 
journey. On leaving Jaffa it was much like 
being among the orange groves of Southern 
California, except that the growth here was 



JAFFA AND JERUSALEM 



121 



much more luxuriant, the fruit larger and of 
better quality. 

In getting from the hotel to the train, 
two persons almost fought over our bag- 
gage. They spoke both English and Ara- 
bic in their contention. We drew a breath of 
relief when we found we were actually seated 
in the car, no more to be disturbed, until we 
reached Jerusalem. 

The money-changers play an important 
part in the various scenes and experiences 
about the railroad stations. There is no pass- 
ing them by, in fact they are in league with the 
ticket agents and those who register the bag- 
gage. Of course, the person who gets his 
money changed is always the loser, and more 
especially so if he is not familiar with the coins. 

Soon we were viewing the plain of Sharon, 
with its beautiful green fields stretching out 
before us as far as the eye could reach. Thorn 
hedges are used for enclosures, there being a 
great scarcity of timber in the country. The 
middle of February is early spring in Pales- 
tine. Wild flowers were seen everywhere, and 
the fruit trees were in bloom. The natives 
were plowing with camels, donkeys and cows. 
Their farming implements were rough and 



JAFFA AND JERUSALEM 



123 



odd in appearance. Their dwellings were 
mostly of clay. 

There is much more poverty in evidence 
in Palestine than in Egypt. Destitute men, 
women and children may be seen everywhere, 
especially at the railroad stations, where they 
come to beg or to sell oranges and flowers to 
the passengers. 

Many of them are afflicted with blindness 
in one or both eyes. We were told that a great 
deal of this was caused by carelessness in han- 
dling unripe figs; the juice of a certain part of 
the fruit being poisonous and very injurious 
to the eyes. We were reminded of Isaiah 35 : 
5-6, "Then the eyes of the blind shall be 
opened, and the ears of the deaf shall be un- 
stopped. Then shall the lame man N leap as an 
hart, and the tongue of the dumb sing: for in 
the wilderness shall waters break out, and 
streams in the desert." It will be a glorious 
time when the outcasts of Israel have been 
gathered home, and the streets of Zion resound 
with praises to their king. Multitudes will 
seek the fountain opened to the house of David 
for the healing of their physical and spiritual 
ailments. The lame man will leap as an hart, 
not only because he will have been healed of 



124 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



his lameness, but because he will have the joy 
of salvation. 

THE HILLS OF JUD.EA 

We passed the stations of Lydda and Ram- 
leh, before reaching the hills of Judaea. When 
the train began to pull up-grade, it went very 
slowly, giving us time to view and study the 
country. We have traveled many thousands 
of miles through the Appalachian Mountains 
of the East, and over the Rocky Mountains in 
nearly all the Western States, but have never 
seen anything like the terraced hills of Pales- 
tine. Some of them have one stone wall after 
another from the base to the top, enclosing 
narrow strips of ground under cultivation, 
where vegetables, olives, grapes- and other 
fruits grow. In many places there were 
drifts of snow. One could take up snow with 
one hand and pick flowers with the other. This 
we have done in the Rocky Mountains. 

The cave where Samson hid when the Phil- 
istines were after him, w r as pointed out to us, 
and also the place where he tied the firebrands 
between the tails of the 3C0 foxes and de- 
stroyed the fields. These foxes with the fire- 
brands symbolize people who have received 



JAFFA AND JERUSALEM 



the baptism with the Holy Ghost and go forth 
with tongues of fire to destroy the work of the 
devil. One person filled with the Holy Ghost 
can do more damage to Satan's kingdom than 
tens of thousands of dead professors. One 
can chase a thousand and two put ten thou- 
sand to flight. Satan and his imps are not 
greatly alarmed until one has received the fiery 
baptism. 

Remembering that a lion roared on Sam- 
son, we noticed many caves that looked to 
be good hiding places for wild beasts. 
To know that Samson killed the lion and after- 
wards found honey in its carcass, has always 
been an inspiration to us. The lion symbolizes 
carnality, which must be slain in the human 
heart, if one would master himself and be a 
victor over the w r orld, the flesh and the devil. 
The honey of full salvation is found where 
the lion of sin has been slain. Reader, be sure 
that the beast of depravity does not master 
you. The omnipotent Christ, of whom Sam- 
son in his great strength is a type, will slay 
him in the twinkling of an eye, when condi- 
tions are met. 

As our train continued to pull up-grade 
and wind around the sides of the mountains, 



JAFFA AND JERUSALEM 



127 



the atmosphere grew much colder. We were 
surprised to see so much snow. It was told 
us that the storm that had just passed was 
the greatest and most destructive one that 
had swept over that country in thirty 
years, and we were compelled to believe the 
statement, for many told the same story. 
Radical changes are taking place in the climate 
of Palestine, which shows that God is work- 
ing in a mysterious way to bring to pass the 
things that are written in His word. 

Bittir was our last station before reaching 
Jerusalem. Here the ancient city of Betharba 
was captured after the Romans had besieged 
it for three years and a half. The Talmud 
states that the carnage that followed was so 
great that the blood of the Jews who were 
slain reached to the nostrils of the horses and 
flowed down to the sea. This was during the 
insurrection of Bar Cochba against the Ro- 
mans. The entire Jewish population was de- 
stroyed. Bittir is now a Moslem town. 

THE HOLY CITY 

Next was the German colony, a suburb of 
Jerusalem, with its modern buildings and 
schools. The Germans also have magnificent 



128 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



structures in Jerusalem. One of their 
churches was built by the Kaiser, cost- 
ing $400,000. Our readers can imagine how 
we felt when our train actually halted at the 
station; we were in Jerusalem. Xot the city 
as it was of old, nor that which is to be in the 
future, but the Jerusalem of today. 

Two thousand years ago Christ wept 
over the city, saying, "0 Jerusalem, Jeru- 
salem, thou that killest the prophets, and 
stonest them which are sent unto thee, how 
often would I have gathered thy children to- 
gether, even as a hen gathereth her chickens 
under her wings, and ye would not! Behold, 
your house is left unto you desolate. For I 
say unto you, Ye shall not see me henceforth, 
till ye shall say, Blessed is he that cometh in 
the name of the Lord" (Matt. 23:37-39). 
During all these centuries, the city has been 
in spiritual desolation, notwithstanding the 
many religions that are there represented. The 
streets are thronged with people from every 
nation and clime. 

Some of the poorest have their bodies cov- 
ered with pieces of skins hanging in shreds. 
Most of them walked without shoes in the snow 
and slush, with their limbs bare. 



ENTRANCE TO THE NARROW DAVID STREET 
9 



130 MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 

On reaching the station at Jerusalem, we 
were approached by a man in European dress. 
He was not looking for us and we con- 
sidered it a providential meeting. He was 
a Chaldean and had spent two years at school 
in the United States. We engaged his services 
as guide and interpreter while in the city. 
On the way from the station to the hotel, he 
took the latest number of the Pillar of Fire 
out of his pocket. It had evidently reached 
Jaffa on our ship and was taken to Jerusalem 
the evening before. We were gratified to 
know the Pillar of Fire had gone before us. 

We stopped at a hotel just inside the Jaffa 
Gate. A better location could not have been 
found; the hotel is only a few steps from the 
tower of David, overlooking the main street 
of the city. 

There is a Babel of languages in Jerusalem, 
although Arabic seems to prevail and is spoken 
mostly in the thoroughfares. The narrow 
streets are thronged with pedestrians, vehicles, 
and persons riding on donkeys and camels. 
"Oah, oah, oah," — "Clear the way," — is heard 
continually. 

Soon after our arrival, unaccompanied, we 
took a three hours' drive about the city. 



JAFFA AND JERUSALEM I3I 



The next day our guide took us to some 
places of interest. The difficulty, we found, 
was in trying to crowd so much into a little 
time. Friday we drove to Bethlehem. It 
would be impossible for us to tell our thoughts 
on the way. We tried to picture out the road 
as it was two thousand years ago, when Jesus 
walked the dusty highways and wept over a 
lost world. 

At Bethlehem the streets were so narrow 
we could scarcely drive through them. The 
beggars were continually asking for alms. 

Here we saw the Church of the Nativity 
owned by three different religious sects, — 
Greeks, Latins and Armenians. This build- 
ing with its ancient pillars is a most remark- 
able structure. The guide took us to the man- 
ger and showed us the place where tradition 
says the infant child, Jesus, was born. 

In A. D. 330, a handsome basilica was 
erected here by order of the Emperor Constan- 
tine,and in the days of Justinian, A. D. 527-565, 
it underwent considerable restoration. There 
can be no mistake as to the antiquity of this 
building, which is an example of the earliest 
style of Christian architecture. To one born 
and reared in a new country, it is novel in- 



RELIGIOUS GATHERING AT BETHLEHEM 



JAFFA AND JERUSALEM 1 33 

deed to stand beside these pillars which have 
stood for so many centuries. It would take 
a whole chapter to give even a slight descrip- 
tion of this church and its various apartments, 
many of which are underground. 

Turkish armed soldiers were standing at 
their posts, and the priests in the different de- 
partments were heard chanting their prayers. 
We were shown the place where the wise men 
stood when they presented their frankincense 
and myrrh to their newborn King. 

The Moslems seem to have no part in the 
ownership of this building. All eyes were 
upon us as we made our way through the 
narrow streets. It was raining slightly, 
and travel was congested several times. 
The drivers kept up a continual shouting 
at one another, "Oah, oah, oah." We 
were amazed that people were not injured in 
the street jams. We bought a few souvenirs 
and returned to Jerusalem in the wind and rain. 
The people said the latter rain was falling and 
were delighted with the prospect of good crops. 



CHAPTER IX 



THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS AND SOLOMON'S 
STABLES 

WE visited the tombs of the kings, which 
greatly interested us. Unlike the 
places associated with the life of Jesus, 
there are no structures built over these tombs. 
This is from the fact that the kings were 
heathen. The natural rocks out of which the 
tombs were hewn are exposed to view; they 
have been there in their present condition for 
many centuries. There are twenty-four steps, 
nine yards wide, leading down into the tombs. 
We took candles and went through the dark 
caverns where some of them are located. 
There are about sixty-four in all. 

Great heaps of stones, which appear to be 
the ruins of buildings, are seen everywhere in 
Jerusalem. There are innumerable stone walls 
and fences. When the Jews get complete con- 
trol, there will be plenty of stone to reconstruct 
the city. 



I36 MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 

The stables of Solomon, with their massive 
pillars, were visited. The vaults of these sta- 
bles extend ninety-one yards from east to west, 
and sixty-nine from north to south. There 
are altogether thirteen vaults of unequal length 
and breadth. The Moslems claim the pillars 
are the identical ones placed there by Solomon ; 
but whether this is true or not, they certainly 
are very ancient. ' It is claimed by some that 
Herod built the present stables over those 
of Solomon, which is more likely to be true. 
The wall is probably the one Solomon built. 

In the Jewish quarters we walked through 
the narrow David Street, crowded with people, 
some of whom were riding donkeys. No 
vehicles were seen on this street. Scarcely can 
a camel make his way through without bump- 
ing the heads of the pedestrians. Hav- 
ing visited the Jewish quarters in New 
York City we immediately recognized peo- 
ple of the same class on this street. While 
the Jews dress much like the Moslems, their 
features are different and betray their lineage. 

We saw no saloons or pork markets in Jeru- 
salem, although in some places liquor and 
swine's flesh are sold to the Europeans. The 



138 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



sons of Islam neither eat pork nor drink alco- 
holic beverages. 

From David Street we were taken to the 
largest Jewish synagogue in Jerusalem. It 
was beautifully constructed, and its interior 
artistically decorated. Two women who were 
scrubbing the floor were not pleased with our 
being admitted, but after giving them a silver 
coin, they gladly cleared the way. There are 
one hundred and sixty-seven Jewish syna- 
gogues in Jerusalem. Some of these are not 
large, but serve for a number of Jewish fam- 
ilies to worship in. The sons of Jacob, here as 
everywhere else, are a distinct and separate 
people, with their own markets, schools and 
synagogues. 

THE JEWS' WAILING PLACE 

On Friday afternoon, in a shower of rain, 
we visited the wailing place of the Jews. W e 
reached the place too late and found no one. 
Some of the stones in the wall have been 
kissed until worn smooth. This particular 
wall, surrounding part of the temple site, is 
156 feet in length and 56 feet high. Men 
often sit here for hours reading their Hebrew 
Bibles. On Friday, toward evening, the fol- 
lowing litany is chanted: 



THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS 



139 



Leader: For the palace that lies desolate: — Re- 
sponse : We sit in solitude and mourn. 

L. For the palace that is destroyed :— R. We 
sit, etc. 

L. For the walls that are overthrown : — R. We 
sit, etc. 

L. For our majesty that is departed: — R. We 
sit, etc. 

L. For our great men w T ho lie dead : — R. We 
sit, etc. 

L. For the precious stones that are burned : — 
R. We sit, etc. 

L. For the priests who have stumbled : — R. We 
sit, etc. 

L. For our priests who have despised Him: — 
R. We sit, etc. 

Another antiphon is as follows : 

Leader: We pray thee, have mercy on Zion! — 
Response : Gather the children of Israel. 

L. Haste, haste, Redeemer of Zion ! — R. Speak 
to the heart of Jerusalem. _ 

L. May beauty and majesty surround Zion! — 
R. Ah! Turn thyself mercifully to Jerusalem. 

L. May the kingdom soon return to Zion ! — 
R. Comfort those who mourn over Jerusalem. 

L. May peace and joy abide at Zion ! — R. And 
the Branch (of Jesse) spring up at Jerusalem. 

How can any one be so unwise as to be- 
lieve that God has not put it into the hearts 
of these Jews to pray and weep over the des- 



WAILING PLACE OF THE JEWS 



THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS I4I 

olatiori of Zion. Their tears ought to be a 
rebuke to every person in Christendom who 
fails to pray for the restoration of Israel. 

MOSQUE OF OMAR 

Our guide took us to the temple site, where 
the Mosque of Omar is situated. The rock 
under the dome is said to be the very place 
where Abraham was about to offer up Isaac 
when the angel of the Lord stayed his hand. 
We have heard and read much about this 
famous mosque, but our interest was never 
truly awakened until we stood within its courts 
and under its lofty dome. 

The rock before mentioned is 58 feet long 
and 44 feet wide, and is supposed to cover the 
mouth of an abyss with a subterranean tor- 
rent, the waters of which the Moslems claim 
may be heard roaring beneath. According to 
Jewish tradition, Melchizedeck also sacrificed 
here. We were shown traces of a channel 
in the side of the rock which is said to 
have been made for carrying away the 
blood. The Moslems think this stone hov- 
ers over the abyss without support. Tra- 
dition says the rock was desirous of ac- 
companying Mohammed to heaven, and 



142 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



that the angel Gabriel was obliged to hold it 
down, the marks of his finger prints in the 
stone being still visible. 

The rock itself is securely enclosed by a 
strong railing on the inside of which no foot 
is allowed. It is considered a great conde- 
scension on the part of Mohammedans to al- 
low any person whose faith is contrary to 
their own even to see it, therefore all who 
are admitted are protected by men who are 
commissioned by the. different consuls in Jeru- 
salem to guard the subjects from the countries 
which they represent. A person in native 
dress followed us whose services our guide 
had secured through the American Consul. 
He kept within a few feet of us, until we left 
the grounds. 

The inside of the Mosque of Omar is con- 
sidered so sacred that visitors must put on 
slippers provided for them before entering. 
This great building is lighted up only once a 
year, on a special festal day. Thousands of 
yards of floor are covered with rich Oriental 
rugs. We asked our guide what a certain rug 
was worth; he was not quite sure, but he 
thought $500 would be a reasonable price for it. 



144 MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 

There were many others just as valuable. 

THE GOLDEN NAILS 

Inside the north entrance there is a slab 
of jasper in which Mohammed is said to have 
driven nineteen golden nails. A nail falls 
out at the end of every epoch, and when all are 
gone the end of the world will come. One 
day the devil succeeded in destroying all but 
three and a half of these nails, but fortunately 
hie was discovered and stopped by the angel Ga- 
briel. There is no doubt in the minds of the 
Moslems that this tradition is true. The per- 
son who guards these nails told us that if we 
would put a half franc on the half nail we 
could get half way to heaven, and if we put a 
whole franc (twenty cents) on a whole nail 
we would go all the way. We told him of 
course we wanted to go all the way to heaven, 
and placed a whole franc on the head of one of 
the nails. Our guide remarked that he had 
gone to heaven in this way as many as fifty 
times. With us we were simply carrying out 
Paul's injunction, to render custom to whom 
custom is due. 

While there is much uncertainty connected 
with the historical places in and about Jerusa- 



THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS I45 

lem. There can be no doubt that the Mosque 
of Omar is situated where the temple of Solo- 
mon once stood. But as yet there has been 
found no trace of anything that is positively 
known to be a part of the ancient temple. The 
portions of the temple over which there is con- 
troversy are accredited to both Solomon and 
Herod. 

However, we were not greatly concerned 
about any of these things. It was enough for 
us to know that we were on the very spot where 
Jerusalem of old stood. It is extremely re- 
pulsive to one who has the Spirit of Christ 
to see the idolatry in the Holy Land. 
Revelation 21:8 says that all idolaters shall 
have their part in the lake of fire. We be- 
lieve that God has kept the location of many of 
the historical places from being known to pre- 
vent their being worshiped. The Church of the 
Holy Sepulcher, about which the various sects 
gather and go through their forms of worship, 
is probably not the real burial place of Christ. 
The place called Calvary we have no idea 
is the Mount of the Crucifixion. The 
idolatry connected with these places shows 
the gullibility of human nature in matters 
pertaining to religion. Men will permit 
10 




J 



THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS I47 



themselves to be deceived in religion when 
they would not in other things. They are 
satisfied with mere forms and ceremonies, 
and go on in their blindness, without God and 
without hope. Pilgrimages are made to the 
Holy Land by devout worshipers in order to 
visit the ancient places, as if this would merit 
divine favor. 

We were reminded of the serpent of brass 
Moses made and lifted up on a pole. In the 
days of Hezekiah the brazen serpent had be- 
come an idol,— the people worshiped it instead 
of the Almighty. Hezekiah, with holy indig- 
nation, called it "Nehushtan," (a thing of 
brass) and ground it to powder. Today Ro- 
manism is the embodiment of superstition, with 
its worship of relics and images; and Protes- 
tantism is almost as bad. The devil is satis- 
fied . if one pins his faith to anything apart 
from Jesus. 

Oh, that deluded' souls everywhere might 
get their eyes open to what salvation really 
is, to what it means to be born of the Spirit, 
and to be sanctified, and kept from sin ! 



CHAPTER X 



A STUDY OF THE PEOPLE 

AFTER visiting Egypt and Palestine, we 
found that many of our preconceived 
ideas concerning the character and cus- 
toms of the people were changed. In reading 
the history of the Moslems with their cruelty 
in war, their slavery of women, and their de- 
votion to the Koran, we had about come to 
the conclusion that there was no good in them. 
But we are glad to say we did not find them 
utterly void of good principles. 

On our arrival at Alexandria, we looked 
upon them with suspicion. Their dark skins, 
peculiar dress and piercing black eyes made us 
fear to trust them. They talked incessantly. 
To our surprise many of the tourists were as 
unconcerned in dealing with them as they 
would have been with people of their own na- 
tionality. Perhaps they had had some pre- 
vious experience with them. W e had the idea 



I50 MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 

that the Moslems looked upon foreigners as 
intruders and that it was in their hearts to do 
them injury, even though they did not out- 
wardly manifest it. This was a mistake, for 
they anxiously await the arrival of every ves- 
sel, glad to have the visitors come. Many of 
them speak English and French and often in- 
crease their business by corresponding with 
those whom they have met, and in this way 
form new acquaintances. 

They recognize the nationality of people at 
sight, and are always careful to address them 
in a pleasing manner. It is remarkable how 
quickly they learn languages. It would put 
the average American to shame. 

Preparation for the foreign missionary 
field requires the study of languages, but there 
are not many who will persevere on this line. 
They prefer waiting until they are placed in 
conditions where they are forced to learn. 
While they wait many of their opportunities 
for doing good are lost forever. The study 
of languages strengthens the memory. A de- 
ficient memory is greatly to be deplored. 
1 Cor. 15: 1-2 says, "Moreover, brethren, 
I declare unto you the Gospel which I 
preached unto you, which also ye have 



A STUDY OF THE PEOPLE 



received, and wherein ye stand; By which also 
ye are saved, IF YE KEEP IN MEMORY 
WHAT I PREACHED UNTO YOU, unless 
ye have believed in vain/' 

When people forget their past blessings 
and also to fortify themselves where they are 
weak, they degenerate rapidly, and are unable 
to overcome temptation. Therefore we are 
commanded to watch. 

Israel celebrated their victories by putting 
up monuments of stone, or otherwise marking 
the places where new epochs began. They 
did this in order to impress upon their minds 
the things that should be remembered, which 
were necessary for their spiritual advance- 
ment and prosperity. 

The Orientals have remarkable memories. 
They remember names, faces and incidents 
much more readily than do the Europeans. 
The simplicity of their lives accounts for much 
of this. The more civilized races have but 
little judgment as to what they should allow the 
mind to feed upon; they forget that it can be 
overtaxed, and have never learned the secret 
of closing its chambers, forbidding those things 
to enter that would unnecessarily burden it. 

There is no time when the mind is given 



A STUDY OF THE PEOPLE 



153 



to greater laxity than when one is continually 
meeting with new places and conditions. The 
eyes are often strained when on rapidly-moving 
trains or vessels by fixing them on objects that 
are receding from view. If this is kept up 
day after day there will often be severe head- 
aches or a collapse of the nerves. The serv- 
ant of the Lord should guard carefully his 
physical and mental powers. 

To keep composed among the rabble of the 
Old World is trying on the strongest consti- 
tution, and some people who travel in search 
of health become physical wrecks because 
they do not know how to gird up the mind. 

The child of God should remember that 
he is bought with a price, that he is not seek- 
ing to do his own will, but the will of the 
Father. 

During our travels we often have to close 
our eyes to scenes before us and turn a 
deaf ear to the voices and sounds that would 
detract from the one great object in view, that 
is, to glorify God. It is necessary to do this in 
order to keep up divine communication and 
actually hear His voice amidst all the turmoil 
and confusion of one's surroundings. 

The people of the Orient seemed to be 



154 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



reaching out their hands, saying,"Can you help 
us?" Many times we were reminded of the 
experience Peter and John had with the crip- 
ple at the Beautiful Gate. When they were 
asked for alms, Peter replied, "Silver and gold 
have I none; but such as 1 have give I thee." He 
then commanded him in the name of Jesus to 
rise up and walk. 

We had salvation, — just what these poor 
deluded sons of Ishmael needed, but the lan- 
guage barred us from helping them. They 
have been so long under religious tyranny it 
will take the mighty power of God to 
break down the barriers and get the Gos- 
pel to them. But all things are possible 
with Him. His heart is touched with pity 
for them as it was for Ishmael, when he was 
cast into the desert. There a bottle of water 
was provided for him, a type of the waters 
of salvation, which will flow out from Jerusa- 
lem to them in the good time coming. 

GOOD-NATURED AND KINDLY DISPOSED 

Many of these natives we found to be very 
kindly disposed. More than once we were 
touched with little deeds of kindness which 
they performed, while at other times we found 



PORTER 



156 MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 

some of them very unreliable, and up to all 
the "tricks of the trade/' It was a frequent 
occurrence to see them trying to humiliate per- 
sons with whom they had had dealings by 
telling others in their presence that they had 
been cheated out of money that was promised 
them for services, and thus by embarrassment 
compelling the tourists to give them more than 
was due them, which most of them did to avoid 
the annoyance' and humiliation. On one oc- 
casion one of these unscrupulous natives was 
paid eight francs for handling our baggage. 
He slipped three francs into his pocket and 
went around to other passengers on board, 
showing them the five francs, and telling them 
he had been treated very badly. This was his 
way of making a plea for more money, and 
trying to force us to give him more. He 
wore European dress, and was far above 
many others in appearance and manners. We 
found that we could not ahvays judge them 
by their outward appearance. 

HUMAN EXPRESS WAGON 

These people of strange habits and customs 
carry great loads on their backs and heads. 
We have seen one man going through the 



A STUDY OF THE PEOPLE 



157 



streets with as many as three medium-sized 
trunks on his back and some hand baggage be- 
sides. When carrying these loads they are 
bent almost double under the burden and are 
usually barefooted, with their toes spread out 
much like those of a camel. The great muscles 
of their bare limbs seem almost like bars of 
steel. We recognized our own trunk on the 
back of a person that presented this kind of 
appearance. He was wending his way through 
a narrow street of Jaffa where he scarcely had 
room to pass without bumping against others. 

The company that we«had engaged to de- 
liver our baggage hired him for a few matlicks 
(pennies) to carry it to its destination. These 
natives carry thousands of bushels of oranges 
from the groves to the places of shipment. 
They are fortunate indeed to be able to own 
a camel or a donkey to carry their burdens. 

A CHANGE OF GOVERNMENT 

The great cry in Palestine, even by the 
Turks themselves, is for a change of govern- 
ment. They believe there is going to be a change 
of some kind soon and are w r aiting anxiously 
for it. We feel quite sure they will not be dis- 
appointed. As we looked upon them from 



I58 MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 

day to day in their misery, we could not help 
but exclaim, How can the conditions be other- 
wise when the land belongs to the sons of 
Jacob! We believe that measures will soon 
be taken that will compel Turkey to let go that 
which they have held so long from the rightful 
owners. They could be paid a reasonable 
price for the land, and England could have a 
protectorate over it until the Jews could as- 
sume their own responsibility. The British 
would have only to cross the Suez Canal to do 
this. 

COMPULSORY MILITARY SERVICE 

As it is now, the Turkish Government hin- 
ders Jewish immigration by forcing young 
men to enter the army, where they are com- 
pelled to serve with scarcely enough food at 
times to keep soul and body together; The 
Kosher food is denied the Jews and they are 
compelled to do violence to their consciences 
by subsisting upon the diet provided for them. 
The only way to escape the army servitude is 
by paying fifty pounds and serving three 
months, and this exemption holds good only 
in time of peace. But few of the Jewish fam- 
ilies in Palestine are able to pay this sum. One 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



can see the burden of this expense where there 
are a number of sons in a family. 

Many who entered Palestine after the re- 
moval of the former Sultan have been com- 
pelled to leave on this account. The Turkish 
Government in Palestine is like an old shoe 
ready to fall off, and every one wants to see 
it go. God is hearing the cry of the people 
and deliverance is nearer than many suppose. 

The olive trees have been so heavily taxed 
the poorer classes have been compelled to cut 
them down and sell them for wood. Si.oo 
a tree is an enormous tax, yet this is the sum 
collected. The trees bare only every other 
year. The past few years, many who were 
too poor to pay the tax, disposed of their trees 
and went to the cities to beg for a living. It is 
in accordance with prophecy that the land 
should be trodden down until the times of the 
Gentiles should be fulfilled. Turkish rule has 
been best adapted for the desolation of the 
land, but now as the time for the Restoration 
draws near, their tyranny must come to an end. 
As w T e write these lines, we feel the inspiration 
of the Spirit. God and angels are interested 
in the patrimony of Jacob, and every Christian 



A STUDY OF THE PEOPLE l6l 

should be interested in that which concerns 
the Almighty. 

We trust that our readers will unite with 
us in prayer in behalf of Israel. Of course it is 
not expected that all of Israel will return, but 
a remnant shall be gathered back, through 
whom God will work to consummate the plan of 
redemption in bringing about the conversion of 
the world. 

n 



CHAPTER XI 



JERUSALEM, CALVARY, VIA DOLOROSA 

OUR readers will understand that there are 
two Calvaries. The one inside the city 
walls is in possession of the Greek Cath- 
olics, and is generally accepted as being the real 
Calvary. 

Several English authorities, including the 
late General Gordon, have regarded the hill im- 
mediately above the grotto of Jeremiah, as the 
true Golgotha, and one of the rock tombs there 
as the sepulcher of Christ. This hill is skull- 
shaped, and is on the outside of the walls. In 
all probability this is the Calvary of the Bible, 
even though tradition locates it in the other 
place. 

As to the very spot where Christ was cru- 
cified, this does not greatly concern the true 
believer. If those who are having so much 
controversy over the place would only repent 



164 MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 

and have His blood applied to their hearts 
they would see the folly of worshiping the ma- 
terial things with which His name is associated. 

We walked over a part of the Via 
Dolorosa, — the Street of Pain, or the Way 
of the Cross. It has fourteen stations, 
starting from the chapel in the Turkish 
barracks. The Cross is said to have 
been laid upon Christ below the steps ascend- 
ing to the barracks. Next is a large and 
handsome building belonging to the Roman 
Catholics, — The Sisters of Zion. An arch 
crosses the street here called the Ecce Homo 
Arch, marking the place where the Roman 
Governor said, "Behold the man!" (John 19: 
5). This arch, which has been shown for cen- 
turies, was probably built by the Romans for 
triumphal entries. The church of the Sisters 
of Zion is an important station, partly built 
into the rock. 

The Sister who took us through its inte- 
rior showed us the place under the arch where 
she and others spent hours each day in devo- 
tion. Stones had been taken from the pave- 
ment and used in the construction of the altar. 
Under the church is traced the Roman pave- 



JERUSALEM, CALVARY, VIA DOLOROSA 1 65 

ment to the full breadth of the larger arch. 

IDOLATRY 

The thing that impressed us most was how 
people who claim to be Christians could wor- 
ship these stones and think in so doing they 
would merit the favor of God. Christ said 
to the Samaritan woman at the well of Jacob, 
who was inclined to have a controversy with 
Him as to the place of true worship, "Woman, 
believe me, the hour cometh, when ye shall 
neither in this mountain, nor yet at Jerusalem, 
worship the Father. Ye worship ye know not 
what: we know what we worship: for salva- 
tion is of the Jews. But the hour cometh, and 
now is, when the true worshipers shall worship 
the Father in spirit and in truth : for the Father 
seeketh such to worship him. God is a Spirit: 
and they that worship him must worship him 
in spirit and in truth" (John 4: 21-24). God 
will save people anywhere when conditions are 
met, hence Jesus said, "It is expedient for you 
that I go away : for if I go not away, the Com- 
forter will not come." Not every one could 
be with Jesus ; there were only a few who could 
follow Him along the dusty highways or seek 
the place of His retirement where they might 
converse with Him. His mission was to all man- 



JERUSALEM, CALVARY, VIA DOLOROSA 1 67 



kind, and the work of transforming the hearts 
of men could better be accomplished through 
the instrumentality of the Holy Spirit than by 
His own immediate presence. If it were oth- 
erwise, there might be some virtue attached 
to places. The Samaritan woman said to Him, 
"Our fathers worshiped in this mountain." 
She asked Him if He was greater than their 
father Jacob who drank water from the well 
on which He sat. 

Those who have no vital Christian expe- 
rience have no idea what it means to worship 
Christ in spirit and in truth. Therefore their 
affections are placed on material things. Nat- 
urally, man is a religious being, and the crav- 
ing of his nature must be satisfied. If he does 
not obtain salvation, he will nevertheless wor- 
ship something. In the baser forms of idola- 
trous worship he will bow dow T n to wood and 
stone. True Christianity will lift people up 
above all these things. They will have the 
witness of the Spirit, banishing all of their 
superstition and doubt. 

DEVOTED TO STONES 

The Sister who kindly took us about the 
sacred structure showed that her devotion to 



i68 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



the stones was much greater than her love for 
Christ himself. She pointed to the stones 
where tradition says He carried His Cross 
and said in a subdued voice, "Oh so holy, so 
holy!" This is scarcely a step from heathen 
idolatry. Such persons have no idea what 
regeneration means. The vital principles of 
Christianity are lacking, and the plain teach- 
ings of God's word are of little consequence 
to them. 

It is the custom in heathen lands for those 
who are given to idol worship to take long 
journeys to places where worship is believed to 
be more effectual. The Mohammedans do this, 
and pray with their faces toward Mecca. 
Every Islamite is supposed to start on a jour- 
ney to Mecca at least once during his lifetime. 
There is a similar practice among the Russian 
Greek Catholics, who make long pilgrimages 
to Jerusalem on foot. They think if they 
should die on such a journey that their chances 
for heaven would be far more favorable. 

The third station along the Via Dolorosa 
is marked by a broken column where Christ is 
said to have sunk under the weight of the 
Cross. Near to this place tradition locates the 
house of the poor man (Lazarus), beyond 




i 



VIA DOLOROSA STREET OF PAIN 



I/O MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 

which, opposite a lane, is the fourth station, 
where Christ is said to have met His mother. 
At the next street coming from the right the 
Via Dolorosa turns to the west and joins 
Tarik-el-Alam, or route of suffering, properly 
so-called. Close by is the Roman house of 
Dives (the rich man), of which there is no 
mention before the fifteenth century. This 
house is built of various colored stones and 
has a small balcony. Here is the fifth station, 
where Simon of Cyrene took the Cross from 
Christ. A stone built into the next house to 
the left has a depression in it, said to have 
been caused by the hand of Christ. 

After ascending the street about one hun- 
dred paces the sixth station is reached. To 
the left is the house and tomb of Saint Veron- 
ica, (a United Greek chapel). They tell us 
that Veronica wiped off the sweat from the 
Savior's brow, whereupon His visage re- 
mained imprinted on her handkerchief. The 
house is shown where they say Christ leaned 
before He fell the second time. The seventh 
station is where the street crosses the lane 
from the Damascus Gate, through which He 
left the city. A hole in a stone of the Greek 



JERUSALEM, CALVARY, VIA DOLOROSA 171 

Monastery marks the eighth station. The Via 
Dolorosa ends here. 

The ninth station is in front of the Coptic 
Monastery, where Christ sank under the 
weight of the Cross. The last five stations are 
in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. The 
tenth is by a ring of stone in the pavement of 
the Golgotha chapel where they say Christ 
was undressed. The eleventh, where He was 
nailed to the Cross, is in front of the altar. 
The twelfth, that of the raising of the Cross, 
is in the adjacent Greek chapel. The thir- 
teenth, where He was taken from the Cross, 
is at an altar between the eleventh and 
the twelfth stations. And lastly, the four- 
teenth is by the Holy Sepulcher. 

The various records of pilgrimages show 
that the traditional places have been fre- 
quently changed. Many visit them and much 
money is expended. Some good perhaps is 
being accomplished, — that of keeping in mind 
the fact that the Jews are God's chosen, 
earthly people, and that His promise to Abra- 
ham will yet be fulfilled in their home gather- 
ing. The money which the tourists put into 
circulation helps the poor in some measure. 
Apart from this there can be but little benefit 



JERUSALEM, CALVARY, VIA DOLOROSA 1 73 

derived from their visiting Palestine. Most 
of them have no real interest in the res- 
toration of thejews,neither are they interested 
in the poor, half -clad, half -starved natives, who 
are helpless under the heel of oppression. 

Millions of dollars have been spent in the 
erection of buildings, by the different sects. 
If this money could have been used to clothe 
and feed the poor in Jerusalem, it would 
have been put to much better use. What 
will these buildings amount to ! It will be as it 
was in the days of old, there will not be left 
one stone upon another. They will suffer a 
like fate with the Mohammedan mosques and 
the temples of heathen worship. If the va- 
rious denominations in the Holy Land had sal- 
vation, they would have the interest of the Jews 
at heart, and would be used of God to enlighten 
them in spiritual things. But their roots have 
withered in the ground and they have only a 
form left. Nothing short of vital Christianity 
will take hold of the heart, — but of this there 
is a great scarcity in Jerusalem. 

PROGRESS DUE TO CHRISTIANITY 

Protestant religion as it exists today is 
only a step in advance of Islamism, which con- 



*74 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



sists in the observance of five duties ; ( i ) bear- 
ing witness that there is but one God; (2) re- 
citing daily prayers; (3) giving the legal 
alms; (4) observing the Ramazan or month's 
fast; and (5) making the pilgrimage to Mecca 
once a lifetime. Any kind of worship that 
is void of spiritual life has a degenerating 
influence, bringing people into bondage, which 
in some instances is worse than slavery. All 
the progress that has been made in civilized 
lands is due to Christianity. It has resulted 
in the making of better laws; even though 
churches have apostatized, all has not been lost. 

The world is ripening for the tribulation 
judgments; the old ecclesiasticisms will have 
to suffer the penalty of their sins. They are 
destined to become the storm center of God's 
wrath, when rulers and kings are being shaken 
from their thrones, preparatory to Christ's 
rulership of the world. 



CHAPTER XII 

JERUSALEM IN A SNOW STORM 

ON Saturday, accompanied by our drag- 
oman and his assistant, our party 
started on horseback for the Mount of 
Olives. We went by the way of the valleys of 
Hinnom and Jehoshaphat. Before reaching the 
top of the mount, we had to turn back on ac- 
count of a blinding snowstorm. Most people 
have the idea that a snowstorm is unknown in 
Palestine, but this is a mistake. There was 
an unusual amount of snow in February, mak- 
ing the roads almost impassable. 

From the Mount of Olives we expected to 
get a view of the Jordan Valley and the Dead 
Sea. 

As the storm grew worse the writer and 
our guide's assistant returned to the city, while 
the rest of the party went on. A little later 
they also ceased to battle against the wind, 
and returned. Our escort, a young Arab, 



JERUSALEM IN A SNOW STORM 1 77 



could speak only a few words of English. He 
was very kind, and did all he could to make us 
as comfortable as possible. He rode a mule, 
keeping a few feet behind us, continually call- 
ing out to our horse. The animal seemed to 
understand him and would turn to the right or 
to the left as directed. Sometimes the people 
along the road would shout at him. He would 
smile at them and answer back. We imagined 
they were asking him to treat them after he 
had received his pay. 

Before reaching the city gate, it became 
necessary for us to dismount and have the 
saddle adjusted. It would have been inter- 
esting to some of our friends to have seen the 
dilemma we were in. Our escort wore no 
gloves and his fingers were stiff with cold. 
While trying to tighten the girth, the horse 
and mule began to fight, and the horse broke 
away. The writer had gone on ahead to find 
a place to remount, and caught him as he came 
up the hill. 

The young Arab tied his mule to a stone 
fence and with his cold fingers tried again to 
tighten the saddle girth. During this time 
we took hold of the saddle to see if it were 
sufficiently tight. It somewhat amused us 
12 



1/8 MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 

i 

when he said, "Stop, Madame! Stop, 
Madame!" He was only a servant, but he 
spoke with authority, a trait characteristic of 
the Moslems, especially when they are speak- 
ing to a woman. 

After reaching the city wall, the storm 
somewhat subsided. The ride from there to 
the hotel was very interesting. To have such a 
privilege was rare indeed. Many of the houses 
were so low it seemed we were looking clown 
on their roofs. There were only a few per- 
sons in the streets, the multitude had found 
shelter somewhere. By the time we had 
reached the hotel, a number of men and chil- 
dren were following us, asking for gifts. 

POVERTY AND SUFFERING 

After being once more seated by a fire, 
thinking of our adventure in the storm, the 
good nature of our escort, and the scenes of 
poverty in Jerusalem, we could not keep back 
the tears. Thousands of people with no 
fuel, and many with but little food or shel- 
ter! We could not help drawing the contrast 
between them and the people of our own coun- 
try, where there is so much ground and an 
abundance of everything. They waste what 



JERUSALEM IN A SNOW STORM 1 79 

the population in Palestine could live on. 

Wood is so expensive in Jerusalem it can 
scarcely be had at any price. An armful of 
olive wood, enough to make a fire in a small 
stove, costs an English shilling or twenty-five 




MOSLEM SMOKING 

cents. We noticed some people were using 
oil stoves. Fires made of olive wood are more 
expensive than oil and burn out quickly. 

Fancy souvenirs, highly polished, are made 
of the olive wood. Many of these souvenirs 
are hand made, but sell for a mere trifle. 

The Moslems are great smokers and gos- 
sipers. In the cities they have many haunts, 



i So 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIEXT 



and while they do not drink intoxicating 
liquors, they may be seen sipping their coffee, 
smoking their pipes and having a good time 
generally. Women are not seen at such 
places. 

The Jews spend their time at their places 
of business or with their families. They have 
strong home ties. 

God is especially interested in Israel, 
but He is also interested in the descend- 
ants of Ishmael. When the bondwoman and 
her son were cast out, He provided bread 
and water for them in the desert, and the wa- 
ters of salvation will yet flow out from Jeru- 
salem to slake the thirst of these sons of the 
desert. 

Sunday the 19th, the sky was clear, but the 
melting snow and slush of the .streets made 
them almost impassable. Wishing to attend 
services somewhere, we started out, and suc- 
ceeded, after some difficulty in reaching the 
American Missionary Church. We found 
some persons in attendance who were on the 
ship with us in the storm. 

In the afternoon we felt clear that our mis- 
sion for the time in Jerusalem was accom- 
plished, and we left the next morning. 



JERUSALEM IN A SNOW STORM l8l 



After the confusion connected with the reg- 
istering of the baggage at the station, and 
finding seats in the train, we were soon winding 
around the mountain side, and viewing more 
carefully the terraced hills than we did before. 
Again we were impressed with the lack of 
economy in America where thousands of acres 
of land are uncultivated that would be eagerly 
sought after and tilled in European and Ori- 
ental countries. 

All the way to the plain of Sharon our 
mind went back to the scenes we had left. 
Everywhere the clamor for existence by the 
poor had greeted us. We thought of the state- 
ment of a person of great benevolence, who 
traveled in Italy some years ago. From day to 
day he looked into the faces of those who were 
deprived of the necessaries of life, and after 
he had reached the place where he could no 
longer forbear, he cried, "Why does not the 
heart of God break? Why does not the heart 
of God break?" Instantly he saw the cruci- 
fied Redeemer as He hung on the Cross pour- 
ing out His blood for a lost world, and with 
a new revelation of His love for humanity, he 
cried, "The heart of God d*id break!" 

When the soldiers pierced the side of Jesus, 



JERUSALEM IN A SNOW STORM 183 

out of the wound flowed blood and water. This, 
it is said, was the result of a broken heart. 
How little we can do at best to alleviate suf- 
fering! and should we fall short of this there 
will be much to account for. 

INCIDENTS AT A RAILWAY STATION 

We stopped at a station, which may have 
been Ramleh,and were there confronted with a 
class of people in the condition we have just de- 
scribed. There were young, old and middle- 
aged all waiting for the train in hopes of get- 
ting coins from the passengers. A boy about 
ten years old had picked a bouquet of wild 
flowers, and carried them until they were 
wilted. He handed them to us and asked for 
bakshish. When those who stood by saw that 
we gave him a few matlicks (pennies) they 
were greatly excited, and so great was the 
clamor at our car window that all eyes 
were turned in that direction. There were 
about a dozen who kept up their demonstra- 
tions in their plea for money. About half of 
them were children, the rest were adults, but 
all were equally persistent. We had about forty 
matlicks, which we carefully gave out to the 
younger ones, but our difficulty was in getting 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



them to the right ones. The stronger boys 
pushed the smaller ones away, and good- 
naturedly took hold of our fingers and 
tried to take the coins by force. Some of 
the adults came to our assistance and waited 
for directions as to who should be the next 
to have a coin placed on his palm; others 
were ready to keep the older boys from 
crowding him away. We noticed one little 
half-blind boy, smaller than all the rest, crying 
because he thought there was no show what- 
ever for him. We asked for him to be brought, 
and to his and the astonishment of all we gave 
him a silver coin. There was great inter- 
est then. The grown up persons were be- 
coming more excited. Another silver coin 
was handed to a boy who seemed to have 
become discouraged at the very beginning, but 
a shout went up from all when they saw what 
he had received. The bell was ringing to 
start, and the poorly clad, half-blind man who 
had held the boys up to receive the money 
stood silent, and with a pitiful look and up- 
turned palm waited for a gift. We gave him 
our last silver coin, amid the uproarious dem- 
onstrations of all. 

The Lord blest us in making these small 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



gifts, and we felt that if we had ten thousand 
pounds we should like to go through the 
country and give it to the poor. 

Jesus said to the disciples, "Ye have the 
poor with you always/' and also, "It is more 
blessed to give than to receive. " The wealthy 
tourists gave out their money, but w r e noticed 
it was only to those who did them favors. "Give 
to every man that asketh of thee; and of him 
that taketh away thy goods ask them not again. 
* * * And if ye do good to them which do good 
to you, what thank have ye? for sinners also 
do even the same" (Luke 6: 30-33). 



CHAPTER XIII 



JERUSALEM AND HOMEWARD 

WHEN we reached Jaffa, we wanted to 
go immediately to the "Kossier," a 
small Khedevial-British mail steamer 
lying out in the harbor, on which we were to 
sail, but as we had already paid for our trans- 
fer to this boat, before leaving Jerusalem, the 
company was in no hurry to take us out. They 
wanted to take those first whose patronage 
was doubtful. This gave us a few more hours 
at Jaffa. 

We walked down the street, and had to el- 
bow our way through. 'All eyes were upon us. 
The shopkeepers came out to sell their goods, 
even following us. - 

We passed an Arab carrying a small wagon 
load of goods on his back, and a camel near 
by, with a load heavy enough to almost 
crush him. 

As we looked upon the heavily laden man 



JERUSALEM AND HOMEWARD 1 89 

and beast, we could not help but feel we had a 
fair picture before us of the cruel, Turkish 
Power with its oppression of the people. 
One of the results coming from such op- 
pression is cruelty to animals. More than 
once we had to plead with our drivers 
to desist from using the whip so freely. They 
would check up for a time, but there was such 
rivalry for speed between them and other 
coachmen, they would soon resort to the lash 
again. Frequently our drives were spoiled by 
the cruelty shown to these victims of the lash. 
We had often heard it said that Arabs were 
kind to their horses, but we failed to see this 
either in Egypt or Palestine. We wished many 
times that the humane laws of our own coun- 
try could be enforced there. 

MOSLEM CHILDREN 

We saw but few children in the Orient. 
They are not turned out into the streets as 
they are in Europe and America. Girls are 
often given in marriage when eleven and 
twelve years old, and even younger, and 
from thenceforth go with veiled faces in com- 
pany with older married women. 

Mothers with great, loaded market baskets 



190 MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 

on their heads were often seen carrying chil- 
dren that were old and strong enough to walk. 

At three o'clock, we went down to the shore 
to board the ship. The waves were high. 
There were six passengers in the small boat 
and twelve natives to handle the oars. When 
nearing a large wave, one would give the warn- 
ing by uttering a few words, others would 
repeat them after him, and at the same time 
give all their strength to the oars. 

The rocks were soon passed, and we 
found ourselves on the deck of the ship, 
scarcely able to make our way to our cabins 
on account of so many boxes of oranges. After 
the hold had been stored to its utmost capacity, 
the decks were covered with them. We bought 
a large basket for two francs. 

Some persons filled their hand baggage 
with these Jaffa oranges, and found on reach- 
ing France they had to pay duty on them. 

EGYPTIAN BAZAARS 

Many Americans spend small fortunes 
for souvenirs. In Egypt fabulous sums 
are paid for rich, Oriental tapestries, laces and 
handsomely decorated wares. The bazaars of 
Cairo in their display of costly wares can- 



192 MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



not be described. Their salesmen are trained 
to perfection. At the sight of a stranger 
they begin to exhibit their goods, each 
trying to out-do the other. In a subdued 
voice, they will say over and over again/'We do 
not ask you to buy, just to look. Walk around 
take your time, and see what we have." They 
are careful to conceal prices until they have 
awakened a keen interest in the prospective 
purchaser. 

We succeeded in getting through a nar- 
row street of one of the most famous bazaars 
of Cairo. It was a veritable Vanity Fair, with 
dazzling fabrics and flashing gems. After 
having seen the place once we sought no op- 
portunity to see it again. We thought of 
Bunyan's Pilgrim, who placed his fingers in 
his ears, and ran from the city of destruction, 
crying, "Life, life! Eternal life!" 

PORT SAID AND THE SUEZ CANAL 

We reached Port Said about nine o'clock 
the next morning. Here our ship lay in the 
harbor nearly all day, giving us an opportunity 
to see the Suez Canal. An experienced Arab 
and his son took us to the mouth of the canal 
in a small boat. The sun was hot, but we en- 



JERUSALEM AXD HOMEWARD 



1 93 



joyed the trip, which was made more interest- 
ing from the fact that our guide could speak 
English well. He had been acting as inter- 
preter at this port for many years, and had tes- 
timonials from noted Americans and Euro- 
peans. He seemed especially conversant with 
facts concerning the Suez and Panama Canals, 
and gave us some valuable information. 

We asked him how he had learned to speak 
English so well. His reply was, "I have never 
been to an English school. It has been a mat- 
ter of compulsion with me; I have had to learn 
not only English, but French, German and 
other languages in order "to make a living for 
my family. I catch every word from for- 
eigners and find out the meaning. I am teach- 
ing my boy to do the same thing. It is not 
difficult to make money when we understand 
the languages of those w r ho visit our shores." 

The shopkeepers seem to think an injustice 
has been done them if visitors leave without 
making purchases. At Port Said, a shop- 
keeper was greatly pleased when one of our 
party purchased a fez, the popular head- 
dress of all classes. He placed the fez on 
the head of the purchaser, and smiled approv- 
ingly, as much as to say, "You never looked 

13 



JERUSALEM AND HOMEWARD I95 

better in your life." The fez is often used 
as a crown for the turban. 

ALEXANDRIA 

Wednesday morning, February 22d, we 
reached Alexandria. The German ship on 
which we expected to sail for Naples was full, 
and' our only alternative was to stay in Alex- 
andria three days, and take a French steamer 
to Marseilles. It did not greatly surprise 
us that the Lord saw fit to change our course 
and take us to America by way of London, as 
there were some important matters in connec- 
tion with the work there that needed our at- 
tention. 

On reaching Alexandria, it seemed quite 
different from our landing at that place a few 
weeks before. We had become so well ac- 
quainted with the people, that by this time we 
felt very much at home. 

There was a temporary fence on the dock 
around the entrance to the ship, at the gate of 
which two policemen stood, to prevent hotel 
runners and others from going on board the 
ship until official orders were given. They 
crowded one another and refused to obey until 
the officers had to take their sticks and beat 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



them back. They took the blows for a time as 
unconcerned as if they had no feeling. 

When permission was given them to go 
through the gate, they seemed to forget their 
struggles in their eagerness for passengers and 
their baggage. 

We found apartments at the Suez Canal 
Hotel, an imposing modern structure, magnifi- 
cently furnished. We had rooms overlooking 
the sea, for three and one half francs a day (70 
cents). We were able to secure these rates, 
from the fact that there were only a few guests 
in the hotel at this time, and thus the Lord 
continually opened the way before us, show- 
ing us special favors even in the smallest de- 
tails of the trip. 

We spent three days in Alexandria, which 
is almost a modern city. As a rule tourists 
are so anxious to get to Cairo they do not 
tarry here long. If they reach Alexandria 
in the forenoon they leave for Cairo before 
night. 

EGYPT AND ITS HISTORY 

We never spent more profitable hours than 
at Alexandria. It seemed the heavenly hosts 
were encamped around us. We rode down 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



the famous Mahmudiyeh Canal, which con- 
nects with the Nile. There were a few white 
clouds in the sky, the flowers were in bloom, and 
the birds were singing. Along the banks of this 
canal and on boats we saw bricks that had been 
made by the natives. This brought the whole 
history of Israel and their brickmaking in 
Egypt vividly to mind, and although nearly 
four thousand years have passed, we felt as 
if it had been but yesterday since Moses led 
the host to the Red Sea. 

For centuries Egypt was a great op- 
pressor, but God broke her arm of power and 
brought her kings down into the dust. Egypt 
is a type of the world power, which exalts it- 
self against God, and refuses to take His 
counsel, and is the most striking type of the 
old nature found in the Bible. 



CHAPTER XIV 



FROM ALEXANDRIA TO LONDON 

ON 1 the 24th of February, we left Alexan- 
dria on board the "Sydney/' for Mar- 
seilles, France. During the voyage we 
had a good opportunity to study the characters 
of some of the followers of Mohammed. There 
were also a number of French Catholic priests 
on board. 

Four Mohammedans sat near us at the 
table. They wore their turbans when they 
ate; two of them were dressed in flow- 
ing robes, while- the other two sometimes 
appeared in European dress. The one they 
looked upon as their chief was a superintend- 
ent of schools in Egypt. He was taking the 
others, three young men, to France to put 
them in school, on funds that he had solicited. 
They were preparing for the Islam priesthood, 
or muezzins, as they are called. 

They pinned their napkins around their 



200 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



necks; often they were at a loss as to how to 
use their knives and forks, usually they laid 
them aside and ate with their fingers. Their 
bill of fare at the table was much like 
that of our own people. We noticed they lived 
mostly on vegetables, the tender Egyptian rad- 
ish being a favorite with them. There were 
several kinds of wine on the table, but no true 
Moslem ever puts the wine cup to his lips. 
Neither does he defile himself with swine's 
flesh. 

The chief of this Islam party was the 
only person we found on board the first few 
days of the voyage that could speak English 
intelligently. He seemed to take pleasure on 
several occasions in acting as our interpreter. 
He talked freely about the European and 
American schools, and told us if we ever 
wanted some one to teach Arabic in our School, 
to let him know and he would send us a good 
teacher. 

At Alexandria about 200 of their friends 
gathered at the dock to bid them farewell. 
Most of them were young men from the schools 
of Cairo and Alexandria. They made speeches 
and bade their friends good-bye, in their char- 
acteristic way. The Moslems never shake 



202 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



hands or remove their turbans as an act of 
courtesy or salutation. The color of their head- 
dress designates their religious caste and it 
would be entirely out of place to remove it. 
It is not an uncommon thing to see the men 
embrace and kiss one another in public places. 
We never saw more affectionate good-byes on 
American or European shores, in fact they 
went so far as to secure boats and follow the 
ship out to where the pilot was transferred 
to another vessel. They kept up their demon- 
stration until we lost sight of them. 

Our Islam friends on board observed their 
religious rites as faithfully as though they were 
worshiping in a mosque. Before the ship was 
fairly out at sea, they selected a place on deck 
to pray. Once or twice a day they could be 
seen prostrating themselves with faces toward 
Mecca. One of the four was somewhat timid 
when strangers were looking on, but the other 
three seemed to be oblivious to all about them. 
The three young men were studying English 
and French under their chief; they were very 
diligent and could be seen with their books at 
all times of the day. 

We were anxious to see whether they 
would lay aside their flowing robes and put 



FROM ALEXANDRIA TO LONDON 203 

on European dress when they reached France, 
but they did not do so. 

There were a number of priests on board 
who had spent years in Palestine; they were 
simple in their manners, and apparently honest 
and very devout. They drank wine freely at 
every meal, then they would rise from the ta- 
ble and cross themselves and go over some 
kind of lingo in a foreign tongue. They ate 
pork and other kinds of meat every day except 
Friday, when they confined themselves to a 
fruit and vegetable diet. 

Our party sat near the center of the table, 
we had the Cross on one side and the Crescent 
on the other. These devoted worshipers were 
utterly ignorant of salvation. How thankful 
we were that God had not permitted us to be- 
come engulfed in superstition and idolatry. 

The darkness and ignorance of the peo- 
ple in these two great religions is appal- 
ling, and their fortresses seem to be im- 
pregnable. No power of persuasion will have 
any effect upon the blind followers of Moham- 
med and those who claim the infallibility of 
the pope. It will take the judgments of God to 
bring them down into the dust of humiliation. 

On reaching Marseilles, our ship was 



204 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



placed in quarantine and we were transferred 
to a small boat and taken ashore. We found 
one person that could speak a few words of 
English whose services we secured to help us 
get our baggage through the Custom House 
and to the train. 

We had a beautiful afternoon on the way 
to Paris. The atmosphere was clear and the 
sun bright. We viewed the historical lands of 
old France w 7 ith much interest, but when the 
shades of evening began to fall, we dreaded 
the night, knowing we had to sit up in a 
crowded coach. 

The French have but little appreciation for 
fresh air. They will ride for hours with 
every window closed. The air is often so foul 
passengers fall into a stupor, and remain in this 
condition until they reach their destination. 
This is done by all classes. The more ener- 
getic Americans and English will move about 
and battle with the foul air fiend, even though 
their French neighbors do make a protest. 

A part of one night was spent walking up 
and down the narrow passage-way of one of 
these French cars. We found a window that 
we could let down from the top and get a 
draught of fresh air, but no sooner was our 



/ 



FROM ALEXANDRIA TO LONDON 



205 



back turned than some one would close the 
window. We tried to make the guard un- 
derstand that the air was bad, but he made 
no effort to give relief. 

In Paris we found a person who could 
speak English who was ready to render us 
service. In learning a bit of his history, we 
found that for seventeen years he was asso- 
ciated with ex-Senator of Montana. He 

related several interesting events in connec- 
tion with the Senator's early life. He gave us 
the name of his own son in a New Jersey city 
and begged us to call on him and make his ac- 
quaintance. When he found that Mrs. Wol- 
fram was formerly from Montana, he was 
more interested than ever, and seemed anxious 
to do all he could for our comfort. 

The scenery between Paris and Dieppe on 
the channel far surpassed our imagination. 
We were fairly dazed with its beauty. The 
French are said to be the most economical peo- 
ple in the world. . The beauty and simplicity 
of their lawns, fields and orchards convince 
us that this is true. Every foot of ground is 
cultivated to the best advantage. Great care 
is taken of the shrubbery and trees. 

On reaching the English Channel, we 



FROM ALEXANDRIA TO LONDON 



207 



found a small boat of a hundred tons awaiting 
us. A brisk wind was blowing, the atmos- 
phere was clear, but the sea was rough. We 
never saw a company of people go on board 
a vessel in greater silence. We wondered 
what this meant, "but were not long in finding 
out. The most of them who had observed the 
condition of the sea and taken the small boat 
into consideration, knew they were going much 
like sheep to the slaughter. Many of them 
would not have had the courage to undertake 
the voyage, if they had not known it would 
last only a few hours. 

When we reached the ladies' apartment we 
found all the passengers had taken a reclining 
position. The nurses had instructed them not 
to attempt to sit up. Beside each person a 
large bowl was placed, to receive the contents 
of the stomach. The sight of the bowls gave 
us some grave apprehensions, and we began 
to brace up for the conflict. We had trusted 
the Lord many times before and been kept 
from being greatly disturbed when others 
were suffering from sea-sickness, and believed 
He was able to keep us now. Once or twice 
we felt a peculiar sensation creep over us, and 
thought we would have to yield to the man- 



208 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



dates of the sea god and make a sacrifice of 
what we had eaten, but a little courage and 
faith on our part won the victory. We never 
saw people suffer more than on this voyage. 
Some of them fairly counted the minutes. But 
it was all over when the ship reached land. 

A person asked a nurse if there was not 
a remedy for sea-sickness. Her reply was, 
"Yes, — land." The nurses were all sick. One 
whom w r e noticed was pale as death. She tried 
to be courageous and keep up, but failed. 

The question in our mind was why a boat 
of this size should be taken out on a rough 
sea. 

We reached Victoria Station, London, 
about 7 p. m. When we arrived at 12, Glouces- 
ter road,— our Missionary Home, — we found 
the saints all well and shouting the victory. 



CHAPTER XV 



CHARACTER SKETCHES 

ON our trip to the Orient we met some 
persons who made quite an impression 
upon us, while of others we have only a 
slight remembrance, and many, of course, have 
been forgotten entirely. 

On the voyage from Marseilles to Alexan- 
dria, a young woman sat out on the deck of 
the ship for hours each day watching the sea- 
gulls. She would smile and talk to them as 
though they were her particular friends. Often 
she would reach out both hands and then clasp 
them to her breast. For a time we were afraid 
to approach her, but later did so. We asked 
her why she watched the birds with such in- 
terest? She said, "Oh, I am thinking of the 
time when I shall have wings too, and shall 
be beautiful and white as they are." 

Then she said, "Madame, please tell me 
what I can do to be better, so that some day 
I can be as happy as these birds? I am not 
bad," she continued, "but I often do things 

14 



210 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



that I am sorry for afterwards. I have a quick 
temper, and sometimes offend my friends. Will 
God forgive all of this, and some day shall I 
have wings and fly as the birds do ? Oh, could 
I know that I shall be happy after this life is 
over, what a satisfaction it would be! Indeed, 
I should like to have wings and fly away just 
now." 

With her eyes still fixed on the birds, she 
said, "Please, Madame, tell me who you are? 
Are you not some good lady that can tell me 
how to be happy? I believe you know. Must 
I be miserable forever because I have not al- 
ways done right?" 

Then she would hold out her hands again 
to the birds and talk to them. She would say, 
"Oh come to me, dear birds. Oh, you dear, 
beautiful birds !" 

We succeeded in getting her attention from 
the birds for a short time. She told us she 
was the daughter of a Spanish Christian Jew, 
and that she was on her way to the Holy Land 
where her father and mother were engaged 
in Christian work among the Jewish people. 
She had a trained voice and had been teaching 
music and modern languages in a school in 
France. She spoke English, French and Ger- 



212 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



man as fluently as if they were her native 
tongue. 

While in her cabin she sang almost con- 
tinuously, and at the table she would talk to her 
neighbors in English and French. Some- 
times she would get offended and rebuke people 
for their lack of courtesy and good manners. 
A number of times she left the dining room be- 
fore she had finished her meal. After such ex- 
periences she would go out on deck and talk to 
the birds. 

She wanted a book to read; we gave her 
Looking Back from Beulah. In her quiet mo- 
ments she was completely absorbed in it. When 
a person borrowed it and kept it longer 
than he should, she went to different ones 
and remarked about his unkindness in 
keeping it so long. She deplored the fact 
that it was not written in her native 
tongue so that her friends in Jerusalem 
might read it. She said over and over again, 
"I will tell them what is in it." When we bade 
her good-bye at Alexandria, she expressed the 
desire to meet us in Jerusalem and have us 
make the acquaintance of her parents, but we 
saw her no more. 

She had crowded her mind at the expense 



214 



MY TRIP TO THE ORIENT 



of her physical being, and this is the mistake 
that many are making today. They get into 
the wheels of the educational machine and 
are crushed. They forget that they are mere 
human beings, and frail ones at that; they fail 
to put a proper estimate upon their strength 
and imagine that what others have accom- 
plished they may do. It is the most difficult 
thing in the world to find people who are well- 
balanced, and the modern schools are much to 
blame for this. If teachers see that certain stu- 
dents have special ability on any particular line 
they often push them beyond their strength. In 
the meantime they make them believe they are 
going to have a remarkable career in life, 
which causes them to be inflated with pride 
and to have an undue amount of self-esteem. 

When the nervous system collapses it is 
like tearing down the framework of a house. 
There may be beautiful pieces of architecture 
that formed a part of the structure, but after 
the house falls there is nothing left but a mass 
of rubbish, and thenceforth it is worthless. 

Another passenger on the ik Congo" w r as a 
tall, dark-skinned Egyptian, who was kindly 
disposed, and ready to help anyone w r hen his 
services were acceptable. He noticed our 



CHARACTER SKETCHES 



215 



niece and nephew, Mr. and Mrs. Wolfram, en- 
gaged in the study of French and offered to 
help them. Day after day he met them on the 
deck of the ship and heard their lessons, lie 
took as much interest in teaching them as if he 
were being well paid for it. He never missed 
being on hand at the hour appointed and gave 
them full time. At the end of the journey they 
offered to pay him, but he declined to take any- 
thing. He was a true follower of Mohammed, 
and while he had been studying for a number 
of years in France he was loyal to the Islam 
faith and to his people. No sooner had he 
reached the docks at Alexandria, than he laid 
aside his Derby hat and donned the fez. 

He was returning to Egypt to visit the 
tomb of his father, who had died a short time 
before. It was sad to hear him lament his not 
having been able to reach his father's bedside 
before his death. He spoke of him with 
great tenderness, and was trying to get com- 
fort by writing a poem in which he gave ex- 
pression to his sadness of heart. 

We asked what he expected to do after 
visiting his friends and the tomb of his father; 
his answer was, "I shall teach French in the 
Egyptian schools. " 



BIBLE AND MISSIONARY 
TRAINING SCHOOL 



ZAREPHATH 

BOUND BROOK, NEW JERSEY 

A HOLINESS SCHOOL, WITH NEW TESTAMENT 

TEACHINGS, PRACTICES 
.... AND EXPERIENCES 

AN INSTITUTION FOR THE TRAINING OF 

PREACHERS, MISSIONARIES 
AND EVANGELISTS. 

This School furnishes practical training for the 
development of symmetrical Christian character, 
equipping the student for efficient service in the Lord's 
vineyard. In this pleasure-loving age when false 
doctrines are to be met with on every hand, young 
people need to become established in their expe- 
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It is our purpose to so train those under our 
care, that they may successfully run the Christian race. 
We teach Justification, Sanctification, the Second 
Coming of Christ, and the Restoration of the Jews. 



For Further Particulars, Address 
PILLAR OF FIRE, BOUNDJBROOK, N. J. 



ZAREPHATH ACADEMY 



Zarephath Academy opens September, 1912, with 
a competent corps of teachers. A regular Academic 
course will be given, preparing students for College ; 
also a full business course for those who wish it. 
There will be a preparatory course for those who are 
not ready to enter the Academy. 

EDUCATE YOUR CHILDREN IN A CHRISTIAN SCHOOL 

It is our purpose to give the students, not only 
proper mental training, but also to develop in them 
Christian character. Parents who wish to place their 
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be given the most careful attention, will do well to 
correspond with us. 

Location : — The School is located on an eighty- 
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rooms light and airy. 

Expenses : — The Tuition, including board and 
room, will range from $100 to Si 50 a year. Provision 
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through school. 



Write for Further Information 



Pillar of Fire, 



Bound Brook, N. J. 



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STILL IN GREAT DEMAND. 

Young minds are easily impressed either for good 
or evil. The scenes and incidents described in a book 
are never forgotten by the children who read it, and if 
these early impressions are of the right kind, how 
much better are their chances for heaven. Over 100 
illustrations. Price postpaid, 60 cents. 

Pillar of Fire, Bound Brook, N. J. 



THE HARP OF GOLD 



Nothing like it to be found anywhere. 232 of the 
best songs and hymns published. Nearly half of these 
songs were written by our own people and were 

INSPIRED BY THE HOLY SPIRIT, 

in the midst of trials, testings and great spiritual bat- 
tles. There are songs of praise, faith, healing, the Sec- 
ond Coming, songs of battle and victory, together with 
some of the best altar songs and old-time hymns. 
Words of appreciation are coming from every part of 
the country. Just the thing for praise services, re- 
ligious conventions, camp meetings or Sunday-schools. 
Give it a trial and you will be satisfied. Price, 
Bristol, 25 cents; Cloth, 35 cents, postpaid. Bristol, 
$15 a hundred; Cloth, S25 a hundred, not prepaid. 



PILLAR OF FIRE PRAISES 

This book of 134 soul-stiring songs is bringing 
sunshine and cheer to thousands of homes in the 
United States and England. A favorite wherever 
used. These songs will help you to 

KEEP PRAISING THE LORD 

in the midst of the trials of life. Bristol, 15c; Cloth, 
25c; Bristol, $12 a hundred; Cloth, $18 a hundred, 
not prepaid. 



Pillar of Fire, Bound Brook, N. J, 



PILLAR OF FIRE 



A practical holiness journal. It is opening blinded 
eyes, feeding hungry souls, comforting the hearts of 
those who are in distress and showing the way of sal- 
vation to those who are seeking. "Cannot do with- 
out it;" "Feeds my soul;" "The best paper I ever 
read," are the testimonies received continually. Inter- 
esting and instructive articles on Justification, Sancti- 
fication, The Second Coming of Christ, and The Res- 
toration of Israel. No worldly advertisements. Illus- 
trated. 16 pages, weekly. $1.00 a year. Sample free. 



PILLAR OF FIRE JUNIOR 

A paper for the children and young people. 
The future of the boys and girls depends in a great 
measure on what they read. Give them something 
that will build up Christian character. Sunday-school 
notes in language easily understood by the children. 
Illustrated. 8 pages, weekly. 50 cents a year. 



LONDON PILLAR OF FIRE 

Contains interesting news from the London field. 
An advocate of full salvation. Heart searching arti- 
cles on every phase of the Christian experience. 12 
pages, monthly. 75c a year. Order through this 
office. 

Pillar of Fire, Bound Brook, N. J. 



DEC 13 1911 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 

DEC 13 * 9ti 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



029 715 952 5 



